New to Buick what car has the 350?
- Thread starter Eddie357
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Starting in 1979 Buick only made 6 cylinder motors. You got to go to the 70's for a 350. The older ones will be red
The Buick 350 was made from 1968- 1980. Distributor is in the front angled toward the drivers side. Has rocker shafts as apposed to stud mounted rockers. Usually painted red sometimes light blue. Ribs running down the length of the valve covers. Fuel pump on lower drivers side, external oil pump on lower pass side.
Numbers stamped on front of block on passenger side , also marked on drivers side head between front two spark plugs.
VIN code is H or J for the mid to late 70s 5th digit of VIN. Block stamp is FA to FL
Can also be found in big 1968 -71 Jeeps.
72-80 block casting number: 25504744
Numbers stamped on front of block on passenger side , also marked on drivers side head between front two spark plugs.
VIN code is H or J for the mid to late 70s 5th digit of VIN. Block stamp is FA to FL
Can also be found in big 1968 -71 Jeeps.
72-80 block casting number: 25504744
Stay away from the high compression motors. That would be 1968- 70. It is very hard to lower compression because Buick did it with the pistons.
the highest compression buick 350 was only 10.25:1 on paper, in practice it was 9.7:1 at best.
HOWEVER: stay away from the 68 and 69 350s. they used the shaft oiling system akin to a mopar 360 (fore example) and use special rockers pushrods and lifters. 70-80 used normal pushrod oiling and share the same valvetrain components. I am the unofficial buick 350 guy on here, so uf you have a weird question dont hesitate to ask me.
5 key facts:
5. much like the chevy 4.3 v6 and chevy 350, the buick 3.8 and buick 350 are very similar to each other and swap directly in place of their 6 cylinder counterparts, buick for buick, chevy for chevy. also like the 4.3 and chev 350, the entire front accessory drive from a NA 3.8 (Maybe turbo 3.8 if you get creative) will physically bolt on and work on a buick 350. You will need to shorten and reclock the alternator support rod, but thats it. Starter, wiring, distributor (if modified accordingly), timing cover, water pump, etc all swap over.
4. all buick 350s have the same rear sump oil pan that conveniently fits just right in the g body frame, even is an inch or so above the crossmember so bottoming out is no concern.
3. 1103HKR hooker headers fit like a glove and tuck up very nice. Use a g force crossmember.
2. You will rip stock 3.8 mounts, get poly GN mounts or install a torque strap of some kind.
1. low hot oil pressure is normal. and thats low as compared to say a sbc. 20, 15, even 10 to 5 psi HOT at IDLE in GEAR is completely normal. Naturally the higher the better, but its normal. The stock spec was 36 psi at 3400rpm. Make sure the oil pump has .002 gear face to pump cover clearance (TA performance makes an oil pump shim kit), and about the same .002 wall clearance.
I had the 1968 LeSabre with a 350. The best gas available would not stop the detonation. I replaced it with a 1974 short block but retained the '68 heads and the four barrel intake. That was the answer. I could run cat piss and it ran great. As for the crummy oil pressure the TA oil pump kit boosted mine way up there. It came with new gears, shims, and several pressure bypass springs. All that said I really loved that 350 motor in that '68 land yacht.
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