Ok I'm new here. So here goes My son bought a 86 Olds Cutlass Supreme. With a 307 engine 4 barrel automatic transmission. Ok someone ran a hot wire from the battery to a toggle switch then to the distributor. But you can start the car after you flip the switch and then turn they over on it will fire up. They took the fuseable links out by the starter and put round glass fuses in replace of them. So my question is what should I be looking for to fix this problem? Could it be in the fuse box?
No power to the key switch
- Thread starter Robert Scott nealey
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Get rid of the glass fuses. The fusible links really aren't necessary and seem to cause more problems than they're worth. Run those 2 hot leads directly to the battery or alternator charge post.
Ok the problem is no power to the distributor.. And I want to do away with the toggle switch and put it back the way it's ment to be. It is causing no headlights and other problems.
I'd start looking for another engine harness. It will probably be the easiest and quickest solution
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The red leads power the ignition switch and high speed blower relay. The wire to the distributor should be a pink, ignition hot. Sounds like you have some unfvcking to do.
A/G BODY WIRING DIAGRAMS - MalibuRacing.com
Special thanks to Cliff (AKA 81classic) for all the diagrams!
That toggle switch set up sounds like that car used to live in a 'hood where wheels got boosted regularly and the old owner was looking to hang on to his ride.
As for the glass fuses??, +100!. Lose them immediately if not sooner. You can live without the fusible links but will have to solder/crimp/ ?? new ends to those 2-3 10 gauge or heavier primary red wires and likely whatever other ones you'll find attached to that heavy stud on the solenoid. You will also have to give some thought to substitutes for those fuses which you could wire in at some point-breakers come to mind- for safety against short circuits. Basically that stud connection is a clearing house for power for almost all the car. Think that is bad?; wait until you encounter that crimped/soldered together mess of red wires that are part of the harness to the alternator. Yeah, the replacement engine bay harness is a great idea. For the best version of that, you'd want to get it as complete as possible meaning that you need to pick it from a same year-same make-model vehicle. When you do score it, if the yard allows you to do your own pulling, go all the way back to the firewall and find the master connection that lives on it behind the inner fender well on the drivers side and unbolt/unplug your harness from that socket. You will find that you get a real fist full of wires by doing this but you also get everything that you should need to do a full harness swap and bring your engine bay back to stock-ish. Patience is your friend here; those wire ends and plugs are every bit as old as the ones that are in the car and you will need to be tender and gentle in removing or prying them out of where they reside. in the bay. You may even find yourself having o physically climb into the bay on the donor car in order to get behind the motor to release the various clips and tabs that hold that harness in place, thinking at least one attached to a bellhousing bolt somewhere below the distributor. If you luck in and find a hulk that has been stripped of its mill already, say a prayer that the pullers didn't just use cutters to clip everything in search of an easy job. It happens.
As for the glass fuses??, +100!. Lose them immediately if not sooner. You can live without the fusible links but will have to solder/crimp/ ?? new ends to those 2-3 10 gauge or heavier primary red wires and likely whatever other ones you'll find attached to that heavy stud on the solenoid. You will also have to give some thought to substitutes for those fuses which you could wire in at some point-breakers come to mind- for safety against short circuits. Basically that stud connection is a clearing house for power for almost all the car. Think that is bad?; wait until you encounter that crimped/soldered together mess of red wires that are part of the harness to the alternator. Yeah, the replacement engine bay harness is a great idea. For the best version of that, you'd want to get it as complete as possible meaning that you need to pick it from a same year-same make-model vehicle. When you do score it, if the yard allows you to do your own pulling, go all the way back to the firewall and find the master connection that lives on it behind the inner fender well on the drivers side and unbolt/unplug your harness from that socket. You will find that you get a real fist full of wires by doing this but you also get everything that you should need to do a full harness swap and bring your engine bay back to stock-ish. Patience is your friend here; those wire ends and plugs are every bit as old as the ones that are in the car and you will need to be tender and gentle in removing or prying them out of where they reside. in the bay. You may even find yourself having o physically climb into the bay on the donor car in order to get behind the motor to release the various clips and tabs that hold that harness in place, thinking at least one attached to a bellhousing bolt somewhere below the distributor. If you luck in and find a hulk that has been stripped of its mill already, say a prayer that the pullers didn't just use cutters to clip everything in search of an easy job. It happens.
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