noob, please help

scoti

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Sep 5, 2019
1,599
113
Texas
There is no "just do this" answer.

For the computer & related wiring (what goes, vs what still might be needed), you need to get a wiring schematic online somewhere to help sort through what 'should be' what. Basically anything the computer controlled can likely be eliminated but you can't necessarily do just a 'One Cut Pluck' if some of the wires are still landed/terminated somewhere. 'Ya gotta start sorting to reach the end though.

For random wires elsewhere, they're usually terminated @ 2 ends. Trace them & see where each end goes. You'll start figuring things out by sorting through them one by one.
Torque converter lock-up can be controlled w/a 12v switched power/ground source routed through a relay depending on how it's done (there are multiple ways). That brings up the question of what transmission?
 
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buick7332

Master Mechanic
Oct 21, 2014
310
93
N.E. Philadelphia area
thank yall very much for your replys, actually i bought the car not quite as a daily driver, but sonething that if i needed to go some where i could. i have a project truck already(not running atm) and the other vehicle my family owns we share.i stopped removing the ecm because i needed clarification on the last (probably only) wires that actually connected to something. the wires in the first picture of my last post o behind the motor, im guessing maybe to the trans somewhere(these wires are in very poor shape and have exposed copper showing. im sure what ever they are going to isnt working properly because the exposed metal was litteraly laying on the metal from carb,manifold.i dont know what to do with these wires because i cant find were to unhook them from they are pinched betwee things,then run behind a nrow space between the firewall and the engine.if i cut the ecm side of these wires, i will still have these wires running to some secret location. i guess cut them tape and cap,tape off incase i need in the future.(only i dont think these exposed wires will ever help me) the other picture is of the wires to thermostat, and a ground ran to a alt bracket. if i dont need these i can unhook and remove. after that the harness can be removed with out a problem.im curious as to how this car was actually running and driving, and am starting to fell like the po just got it to start long enough for a quick sell.the fault is on me for not looking into the car further. i can see where the po cut ate least 4 wires from the ecm harness and ran them to the choke.i tested all 4 of these wires and not a single 12+ with or with out the key in the ignition position.also from my understanding the choke was never supposed to be ran from any wire i this harness anyways.i have plugged numerous vacume leaks from the emmisions systems, and thank you bruised banana, i will plug that leak as well, but after i install my hei with vaccume andvace i dont think i will need that port any more because that runs to the carb from the manifold somewhere im guessing.i will find its source and cap that off and pull vacuum from my distributor advance.also the car has no ac compressor a heater core but no working heater for some reason(also vacuum related im guessing).i just need this car to be running again, so i think the echarness has to go so i can see straight.the pink hei wire is still hot when it is supposed to be, my starter still cranks so i know that is still in place, also my alt still works i believe because the batt never died.only i have read the alt was supposed to have a brown wire, mine has 2 wires red and black.im guessing they pulled the brown and ran other wires, or had hooked everything up with sperate wires,and left the oem harness just dangling and did not remove it.

Maybe I can help. The ecm harness runs through the passenger side lower firewall. Pull your carpet back under the glovebox area. You will see it. There is a molded grommet surrounding the harness screwed to the firewall in the engine compartment. You have to remove the inner fender well to get to it. What I did was using a new blade in my razor knife from inside the car carefully cut around the grommet (between the grommet and firewall) until it comes loose. Pull it out through the engine compartment . be sure to disconnect everything behind the glovebox thats attached to the harness. You Will also need to remove the bulb from the check engine light. Hope this helps
 
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houstonecity713

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Feb 23, 2022
26
3
thank you, very much i think ill just pull the wires like you are saying. sounds like it wont be as hard as i thought, then ill just either try to trace the harness that leads to no where, or will leave the small harness that goes behind the engine,its about 4 or 5 wires, ill leave that and pull the other wires that dont connect to anything. buick 7332 i have been reading searching and reading, this method you just told me sounds like the best advice i heard yet about removing it from inside the car. sounds great, thank yall for your advice everyone.i think the check engine light has a burnt bulb in it cuz i feel like it would of been on with all the emmisions systems removed and the endless wires connected to nothing on the ecm harness
 

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houstonecity713

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Feb 23, 2022
26
3
kinda curious on how to connect the lock up, people told me to do it, not going to lie i really dont get it, i kow im going to need to connect it,just dont know how, ill try searchig tho. thanks for the help everyone
 

ELCAM

G-Body Guru
Jun 19, 2021
564
93
Need to know is it a 3 speed C version or a 4 speed automatic transmission first.
 

scoti

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Sep 5, 2019
1,599
113
Texas
i believe its a 4spd how can i be sure
You can ID it by the pan (3spd vs 4spd auto). If it's not a 4spd, you should have electronic connections for the converter lock-up if it's the 350c.
 

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CopperNick

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
2,084
113
Canada
Some more on the t-mission here. First, while most versions of the 350 used a modulator valve and vacuum signal to cue them when to shift, there was an "E" version of the 350 that had a socket and harness added to it to energize the converter. One wire fed power to the converter so that it energized immediately on start up. The other wire was a ground circuit that was attached to the brake signal switch. Hitting the brakes shorted the energizer circuit and de-energized the converter. Foot off the brake and it would automatically reset. Having the lockup operational is not an absolute necessity. The slushbox can and will shift nicely without it. It is just nice to have on hand for high way cruising.

The TH200-R4 and the 700R4 do not take their shift cues from the engine vacuum. They use a TV cable that runs from the passenger side of the T-body up to the carb or Throttle Body or Injection system and which has to be adjusted to just exactly a certain amount of tension to get the shifts to come and go correctly. Too tight or loose and you get either late or early shifts which will kill the transmission if left uncorrected.

Both of them also have the lockup converter and the wiring harness is set up about the same as the one for the 350-E. One wire energizes the circuit and activates the converter; the other disengages it when the brake is applied, Should only be the two wires attached to the plug but if there is a third for some reason, possibly for the cruise control or ground of some kind. The engine is not a reliable ground source as it is bedded on rubber or poly-u biscuits that act as insulators. Best ground is a large gauge wire right from the block to the frame, and clean the mounting points for it down to bare metal to get the best continuity possible.



Nick
 

houstonecity713

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Feb 23, 2022
26
3
will post a better pic in the morning, but im thinking this is a 200r4. its dark out so i couldnt get a good angle, also there is a cable haging this i dont kow what it is, will post a better pic in the sunlight.
 

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CopperNick

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Feb 20, 2018
2,084
113
Canada
Best version of your T-mission pan that would make it easiest to identity the model of the box is with you all the way under the vehicle and looking right up at the t-mission pan so the complete pan including its mounting flange or as much of it as you can focus on is visible on the screen or in the view finder. Angle shots or ones taken from an off side location are not as useful because they don't show the whole pan or obscure some of it.



Nick
 

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