Now my engine sounds just plain bad, what have I done?

[oldmansmonte]

Ok so following the saga of me chasing down a mild engine tick. Chevy crate 350, hydraulic lifters, flat tappet cam.

Things not causing it: Transmission/torque converter, water pump/alt/ps/a/c compressor. Those I ruled out by disconnecting them.

I adjusted the valve lash following what seemed to be a simple method. Rotated engine till just after intake closes, turn rocker nut until pushrod stops spinning, turn rocker nut one half turn to set preload. Continue following firing order as each next cylinder predictably had a the intake side open already. Seemed easy enough. Car starts and runs but now sounds like a diesel. Clacking EVERYWHERE. What have I done? Suggestions welcome.

 

[565bbchevy]

At this point I would do the lash setting per side with the car running, it sounds like you are not quite at zero lash.

 

[fleming442]

Most hydraulic lifters are zero lash plus 1/2 turn to create preload on the lifter. They're probably loose.

 

[79 USA 1]

What part of Buffalo are you in? I'm in the Gardenville area of South Cheektowaga and believe I've seen your car in the Maple & Transit area flying past my Super Duty. Anyway if you want to set the valves with the engine running I had these made many years ago to keep some of the oil inside the heads while adjusting the valves with the engine running.(Keeps the mess down)

While you don't know me from the man on the moon and visa-versa, G Body people are generally a good bunch. I'm willing lend them to you to get your Monte Carlo going again.
PM me if your interested.


Bob S.

 

[Streetbu]

That isn't how you adjust valves. You loosen the nut until there is play between the pushrod and rocker. Tighten until there is no play, then half a turn. If you've tightened them until they won't turn then gone another half turn you've crushed the lifter basically.

 

[64nailhead]

Your system is not sound.

E - xhaust
O - pen
I - ntake
C - lose

As the exhaust valve (E) begins to open, now adjust the intake valve on the same cylinder. Then rotate the engine until the intake (I) starts to close (C) - or is on the way from full open to close and then adjust the same cylinder's exhaust.

The 'adjustment' method can be the spin or jiggle method. Either work, but I usually do both to confirm that I have the zero lash point found, then 1/2 a turn fro there for most stock lifters.

Using the EOIC method creates alot of motor turning over by hand, you cannot use the starter unless you are sure to be lucky 16 times in a row. It's the only method I use, but there are others that also work for stockish cams, but the EOIC method will work no matter how radical of a cam you have.