OIL

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blk7gxn

Royal Smart Person
Feb 7, 2019
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To each their own on brand / weight, conventional or synthetic , depends on each specific application and build needs. This has been a heated topic for many , and some will argue till their death on what brand, or what weight to use to try to convince you what to use, i think world wars could be actually started on this subject. I'm a firm believer on what the manufacture guild lines recommend. With that being said, our beloved cars are now 31 to 41+ years old, and many improvements to oils have been made in the past few decades. One really needs to research the market for what best fits your own personal needs and engine builds, because their may be an oil out there that's better and can out perform what your currently using . Also ZINC has been removed from most oils in order to prolong the life of our Catalyst converters, a primary lubricant additive now only found in "High Mileage" oils, or in over the counter specific additives. Me personally, I like to use Synthetic 10w30 Mobile One high mileage, and change intervals of 3,000 Miles, that's JUST ME. Please share your ritual and what Oil you use and why. would love to see the responses/conversations here, let the wars begin lol
 

lilbowtie

Comic Book Super Hero
Jan 7, 2006
3,460
3,965
113
Canton Mi
Brad Penn here also - I run alcohol and it doesn't absorb water or get the oil milky.
 
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Nov 4, 2012
5,997
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Valvoline VR1 for anything with a flat tappet cam. Subaru gets Idemitsu 0w20 synthetic. Truck jas a roller cam, it gets 10w30 Valvoline Maxlife. Camry gets whatever 5w30 is on sale at Walmart, it's about to croak anyways.
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,639
13,542
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Western MN
Everything I own gets the cheapest farm supply store available, differs between store brand and citgo depending on sales.

Cutlass and Wagon (flat tappet cams) get a bottle of break in oil every oil change to add zinc.

Doesn't matter if its my 500hp lq4 2+2 or my 250k mile 5.3 Rainier, cheap dinosaur sqeezings for me.
 
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Doug Chahoy

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 21, 2016
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GM says 5 W 30 for cold weather, 10 W 30 for normal conditions. Once my new engine has a few miles on it I plan on Mobil high milage synthetic 10 W 30
 
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bob64

G-Body Guru
Mar 30, 2017
713
674
93
Niagara Falls, Canada
Penn Synthetic 10-30 in all classics, why because of there recommendation on changing there oil, first 5000kms add oil if needed, second 5000kms added oil if needed an change filter, third 5000kms full change. Honestly price wise it's cheaper than non-synthetic oil changes at every 5000kms. As my classics never would see 1000kms a year go to next point, vvvv

As it's synthetic it doesn't break down like non-synthetic oils which need to be changed ever 6 months no matter mileage do to being exposed.

Newer vehicles get Penn synthetic oil but recommend grade, normally 5-30, refer back to first paragraph.

I should also state that for a fresh rebuild in the classics, first oil is cheap oil(?) with zinc additive then change at 50kms to a better mineral(Vavoline) oil with zinc additive and change over to synthetic at 500kms,all 3 changes are 10-30.
 
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Dayzedandkonfuzed

G-Body Guru
Feb 9, 2010
971
1,268
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Anglemont, BC
I run Lucas Hot Rod Oil most of the time, 10w40 leaks a little slower than 10w30 in the Malibu lol.

Here's something that always starts an argument;
The W stands for winter, not weight.
 
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