Olds transmission overhaul.

[Lazarus]

Closing on my new place in a few weeks. Finally got a functional workshop. Anyway I want to pull the trans and give it reverse! Noticed on the lift I couldn't even see the upper bellhousing bolts. Take it I need to remove my headers . Disconnect the tourqe converter, shift linkage, wireing harness, spedo cable, drive shaft and cooling lines. How hard is it to reach the bell housing bolts?

Engine I was thinking of simply using a jackstand to hold it up?

I'm also converting it to pre computer. So how do I work it out on the trans?

The 307 is perfectly fine but will the 200r4 give up anymore power with shift kits or stall convertors not Even sure since mine has a lock up. Knowledgeable friend took apart my rear axle and is in fact a 373 posi. Car is an 86 with a 307 5A heads and most certainly is perhaps over cammed having dead spots mid range. Or should I pull motor transmission swap my distributor and intake/ Carb . Give her some new gaskets and make the trans easier to maneuver

 

[MrSony]

On my combo with a Buick 350 and TH350 (still BOP housing) the top two bolts are accessible from the engine compartment in between the firewall and engine. If you have the option, ditch that dog slow 307 for an early 70s (pre 73 if you can, but you'd need hardened exhaust seats. Might as well spend the 2-300 for a full valve job anyway) OLDSMOBILE 350. You can use everything off the 307, cc carb, hei distributor, cam (not sure why you'd want too but whatever. And any change in cam the computer will hate anyway). It will be leagues easier to pull the engine AND transmission. And Like I said while you have em out, might as well upgrade that there engine. A 200r4 in stock form that isn't from a Monte SS, 442 or GN can be just fine with some of the internals upgraded (there are some guides on the forum here somehwere or this as a matter of fact http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/transmission/sucp-0904-chevy-th2004r-transmission-build/) and a shift kit is a must for any automatic.
You can run the transmission with the engine itself just being normal HEI and carb and no computer. The only thing that controls how the 200r4 works is the tv cable on the throttle linkage which much be adjusted correctly (again guides on the internet to do so) and the lockup. ALL 200r4s have torque converter lockup. Your 3.73 gears, a rebuilt (again as per the link) 200r4 and a 350-400 horse olds 350 if you pull the motor and a 2500 stall would be a perfect combo.

 

[Lazarus]

Not looking to bust the bank. Rear end is in "as new condition" P/O swap. The 307 is a newer crate. However the cam is causing hell with drivability. Why my buddy instructed me to go pre computer and get a proper carb we can jet without messing around with the throttle position crap. Make a good runner for now. Like to upgrade the transmission so it will be ready for a engine swap. Don't have 4,000.00 to rebuild an engine for a burned up trans. Budget sofar is 2000/$2500.

 

[pontiacgp]

disconnect the collectors and remove the transmission crossmember. Let the transmission to drop until and you can get to the top bellhousing bolts. I use a long extension with a 9/16" wobble socket

 

[Lazarus]

disconnect the collectors and remove the transmission crossmember. Let the transmission to drop until and you can get to the top bellhousing bolts. I use a long extension with a 9/16" wobble socket

Oh ok Was worried the engine would hit the fire wall and still not have the clearance. My first domestic..... my Datsun had a foot of clearance everywhere lol this is a bit crammed.

 

[pontiacgp]

I'm not sure where the distributor is on a 307 but if it's at the back of the motor like a SBC I remove the distributor cap so it it won't hit the firewall. With an 18" extension this is the type of socket I use.

 

[olds307 and 403]

If you have a bigger cam, go at least 2000, but probably more like 2500 rpm for stall. A good shift kit like the big Trans Go kit with the Servo with help. Get a shop that is fimilar with the 2004R for the overhaul.

 

[marcar1993]

I've pulled them both from the bottom and with the motor. If you are on a budget and not doing the motor, just pull it from the bottom. I take out the top 2 bolts from the top under the hood with a wrench or box ratchet. Drop the exhaust, but my headers were never in the way of the trans, yours could be but I wouldn't pull them unless you NEED to. You are right about everything else.

I'm assuming you have a th200c? A 3 speed? In which case, a 200 4r is a nice swap from someone who ACTUALLY knows how to build one, not someone who says they do. But you will need a different driveshaft and crossmember, no big deal. If you don't need overdrive, a th350 is a bolt in, just get one with a BOP bolt pattern.

Deleting the computer won't affect the trans aside from tq converter lockup. They sell kits to make it work without the computer, but you wont hurt anything not running it either, just 200 rpm higher cruising. (On a th350, there is no lockup to worry about.)