On the 'mildly' Cheap SS Monte Carlo chasing a 9.0____(oil pan woes)

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
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Mainly the yoke- isn't it a 4 bolt flange? What up with that? Width good? Drum-in-hat e-brake?

I know it's been done, but know nothing about it. What's one go for in the junkyard?
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Upstate NY
Mainly the yoke- isn't it a 4 bolt flange? What up with that? Width good? Drum-in-hat e-brake?

I know it's been done, but know nothing about it. What's one go for in the junkyard?

Don't know about the yoke, but will let you, and everyone, know. According to the SSM instructions, I can re-use my driveshaft. I can swap the yoke, we'll see if if it's a direct replacement.
Proce : $61.00+$20.00 core (which I have cores to return). The calipers were $18.00 a piece and the rotors were $14.00 a piece. So I'm $120 into it. The rotors, calipers and pads are new/recently replaced/good so.... $120.

I'm cleaning and painting, welding the tubes. Maybe drilling the axles for 4.75 pattern. But if I can get this to make any go, then I'll grab a set of $275 Mosers.

Still working on it

 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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So This is what you were talking about. I need to see this car build. Love the build concept.

How do you like the roll cage. Which one did you go with, mild or DOM tubing?

This is the cage https://swracecars.com/product/1978-1988-malibu-regal-cutlass-monte-carlo-10-point-roll-cage-ews/

The entire purpose of the cage is to not get thrown out for running a nine. S&W is almost local to me, so I could pick it up to save the shipping. It worked out pretty well other than the rear bars that DO NOT fit as designed unless you lose the rear seat, which I did not. I still have to put in the dash bar and both side bars. But they are waiting until the I'm sure that the dash will never have come out in one piece again. I still have to clean up all of the wiring as well.

Thanks to Mario's kid though, DMV is still closed - working on 8 weeks - so no registration. It's insured and I can use a dealer plate, but I won't take it on a trip until I have real plates. Also, I'm feeling some 4L80 pain right at the moment as well, but hopefully that's gone by tomorrow night.
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
3,359
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Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
I like what your doing, I was super close to pulling the trigger on a buick wagon and I was going to do the 8.8 rear in it too.

Are you going to run a content sensor or just tune for E and call it good?
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,695
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12,175
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Upstate NY
91577826_559611061347044_2115966447837511680_n.jpg


This was the 1st day

To answer your question, I intend to run E85 only. The Terminator Max has limited inputs and outputs, so I don't want to waste one for an ethanol sensor. I think nitrous might take them all.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,695
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Upstate NY
I'm installing this kit https://southsidemachineperformance.com/shop/ols/products/gbody88swap in the near future. I'll try to post pics of the process. Hopefully I can get SSM to answer some questions in the thread.

The directions indicate being able to use the current driveshaft with the Ford 4 bolt yoke. Any idea of the correct UJ for the Ford flange yoke?

I ask due to I'm already using a combo joint for my shaft that is not stock (uses a 1350 UJ on a stock 7.5 rear/yoke.)
 
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