On the 'mildly' Cheap SS Monte Carlo chasing a 9.0____(oil pan woes)
- Thread starter 64nailhead
- Start date
How critical is welding the cross brace to the top of the of the diff housing?
Weld the world brother, lol! 309-L on the tubes to center section and the top plate to center section. None of it is necessary. But you are there and already welding so...
To answer some of the other questions...
What is the rake or angle of the top plate? That is answered in steps 1, 2 and followed up on #6.
As low as possible. See Instant center photos.
Also we sometimes forget you guys don't see an endless supply of G Bodies. Working on these is second nature for us. We have a bit of a generation gap for the whole internet thing (old guys). We are great on the phone though.
To answer some of the other questions...
What is the rake or angle of the top plate? That is answered in steps 1, 2 and followed up on #6.
- ADJUST NEW UPPER ARMS ABOUT 1” SHORTER THAN STOCK
- BOLT THEM ON THE CAR WITH THE NEW TABS ON THE REAR.
- ADJUST THE TRUSS TO CENTER THE UPPER MOUNTS AND TACK WELD. (do not adjust the arms to meet the plate)
- USING THE GUSSET PLATE AS A GUIDE, TACK WELD THE MAIN TRUSS PLATE TO THE 2 HEAVY WALL PLATES WITH THE TUBE NOTCH TO THE BOTTOM.
As low as possible. See Instant center photos.
Also we sometimes forget you guys don't see an endless supply of G Bodies. Working on these is second nature for us. We have a bit of a generation gap for the whole internet thing (old guys). We are great on the phone though.
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I misunderstood the directions for what I put in blue bold and underlined. The photo helps with the description.
I was thinking of bracing the truss to a bracket that I weld onto the truss and I can bolt to the holes next to the pinion. But time will tell. FWIW, I think I'm a couple of months away from making any type real go.
You're an old guy eh? Better you than me lol
My car was new when I was a senior in high school.I hope to be a couple of weeks from getting the 8.8 installed. But once in I'll be trying to figure out where to put an anti-roll bar at. More welding brother
Maybe this will help. Or at least give you some ideas.I misunderstood the directions for what I put in blue bold and underlined. The photo helps with the description.
I was thinking of bracing the truss to a bracket that I weld onto the truss and I can bolt to the holes next to the pinion. But time will tell. FWIW, I think I'm a couple of months away from making any type real go.
You're an old guy eh? Better you than me lol
I hope to be a couple of weeks from getting the 8.8 installed. But once in I'll be trying to figure out where to put an anti-roll bar at. More welding brother
8.8 Axle Truss BRIDGE
www.artecindustries.com
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I misunderstood the directions for what I put in blue bold and underlined. The photo helps with the description.
I was thinking of bracing the truss to a bracket that I weld onto the truss and I can bolt to the holes next to the pinion. But time will tell. FWIW, I think I'm a couple of months away from making any type real go.
You're an old guy eh? Better you than me lol
I hope to be a couple of weeks from getting the 8.8 installed. But once in I'll be trying to figure out where to put an anti-roll bar at. More welding brother
You will have 52" of weld where the truss meets the tubes. You will have another 20-1/2" of weld on the tubes to the center section if you go that route (309-L). FWIW, We have never spun a tube with this setup, even with 40" mudders and LOTS of gearing.
I got to do some driving today and it seems to be working well, other than the handling OUCH it sucks but I guess since this is all about going in a straight line - I'll tackle the turning later.
Looking at shocks and/or anti-roll bar. What is an effective shock? If I install an anti-roll bar, then do shocks really mater, or matter as much? As always I'm trying to get the best bang out of my buck. Competition engineering has an anti-rollbar kit for a little less than $400, but I can get a set of Strange single adjustable rear shocks for about the same. I have no experience with either, but what would be the most effective?
And FWIW, I believe I'm within a couple of weeks of getting this to a track and seeing what it'll do - I should have the rear going by then, a set of tires and wheels that my son has kicking around (somewhere), and the tune is getting better everytime out. The transmission, after several attempts, is working. Feeling my way through the Holley Terminator software, it's definitely not as friendly as an MS, but perhaps its the years of practice/experience with the Megasquirt platform that makes me more comfortable with it - I'll get the Holley down before long
Looking at shocks and/or anti-roll bar. What is an effective shock? If I install an anti-roll bar, then do shocks really mater, or matter as much? As always I'm trying to get the best bang out of my buck. Competition engineering has an anti-rollbar kit for a little less than $400, but I can get a set of Strange single adjustable rear shocks for about the same. I have no experience with either, but what would be the most effective?
And FWIW, I believe I'm within a couple of weeks of getting this to a track and seeing what it'll do - I should have the rear going by then, a set of tires and wheels that my son has kicking around (somewhere), and the tune is getting better everytime out. The transmission, after several attempts, is working. Feeling my way through the Holley Terminator software, it's definitely not as friendly as an MS, but perhaps its the years of practice/experience with the Megasquirt platform that makes me more comfortable with it - I'll get the Holley down before long
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