On the 'mildly' Cheap SS Monte Carlo chasing a 9.0____(oil pan woes)

[64nailhead]

Because you will end up adding 160# or so to the rear to get the 47% back there.

Sent this over from Mac442's thread post#44 https://gbodyforum.com/threads/1985-442-lowering-rear-height.79777/page-5#post-829375.



What is the goal I'm after? I'll venture out on a limb to say that you know the numbers/ratio that I should be aiming for?

 

[64nailhead]

Finally swapped the injectors and managed a base tune - thank you 60 degrees from mother nature.

Small BLM (black lines matter) moment.

 

[64nailhead]

Small update. The car was idling poorly last night, AFR was erratic and it smelled of being rich when the AFR wasn't identifying that. So after doing some late night reading and tune downloading/analyzing from mostly the Sloppy Mec homepage, and speaking to the guy I bought the injectors from, I/we determined the Holley setting for minimum open time was too large. Holley has a bunch of injector's preloaded in their software, but none for Injector Dynamics (ID). I'm mentioning that because as it turns out, ID2000's are Bosch 210's with a different label. The setting needs to be less than .3ms, otherwise the injector is open for too long at idle.

After adjusting this, seen in pic, I had to retune the idle so that was an opportunity to drive for 15 minutes to get a base tune for the injectors with 93 octane (and another couple of burnouts ).

Now onto swapping in E85 and getting the base tune for that saved, but that's going to have to wait because we are getting a mini whiteout/blizzard ATM. The next upgrade arrived yesterday that I'm going to tackle. Hopefully it works out - probably will if I can read, and don't complete the 'dual feed mod'.

Worth mentioning, the concern of having 'too big of an injector' is really a bunch of poo. This engine in stock form had 25lb injecters. I ran out injector at 17 psi of boost on gas with 60lb'er's, I then ran out on C16 at 22psi of boost with 80lb'ers (had to add meth), and now don't expect to have any issues with 210lb'ers. Moral to the story, the motor idles exactly the same with the 60's as it does with 210's.

 

[64nailhead]

Fahrvergnügen German stuff on a G-body and made in the US of A (North America) We'll see if this slows down my ocean liner motion from the front end.

I've been battling with the Holley dual Mac valve boost control....and losing, at least yesterday. But I see a victory on the horizon. I'm gonna try to post a vid or two.

 

[81cutlass]

What front shocks do you have now? Interested to see if those bilsteins help.

I also have moderate motion-of-the-ocean with my KYB's gas adjust which are claimed to be the closest quality to Bilstein's at a pricepoint.

 

[64nailhead]

What front shocks do you have now? Interested to see if those bilsteins help.

I also have moderate motion-of-the-ocean with my KYB's gas adjust which are claimed to be the closest quality to Bilstein's at a pricepoint.

Monroe 59301, the stock replacement from the local parts store. I have a video of me pushing the front of the car down and making it bounce. The bouncing carries on for over a second after I stop pushing lol. I'll get a before and after video. I'm going to try to grab some in car vids of the boost/launch tuning as well. But don't get too excited, my wife has indicated several times that my videography skills are lacking.

I might need some springs as well, but ........ I'll cross that bridge when I get there.

 

[CopperNick]

If the thought had been put to me on the subject i probably would have gone puck instead of trying to mix and match a set of factory biscuits and bolts from what I had accumulated from various corpses that I had picked. Not going to revisit that exercise as I did get it all matched and sleeved and bolted okay in the end but the puck option for someone rehabbing a basket case would be the economic way to go. Not sure what a safety inspector might have to say about it; depends on what state you are in.

 

[CopperNick]

OEM S/S rear springs are progressive, meaning that the distance between the coils gets smaller from one end to the other. Tight end fits into the chassis pocket, wider end on the diff. If you are doing the springs a good WYIT might be a set of Hotchkiss or similar boxed upper and lower control arms and bushings. There is also an angle bracket available that attaches to the front lower control arm pocket to stiffen it up as well. For a source for the springs themselves CPP or ???



Nick

 

[64nailhead]

What front shocks do you have now? Interested to see if those bilsteins help.

I also have moderate motion-of-the-ocean with my KYB's gas adjust which are claimed to be the closest quality to Bilstein's at a pricepoint.

Before :

After - no need for a video - I can only push the car down about an 1" and it pops back without any rebound. HOLY SHEETZ are the Bilstein B6's worth it. It's like driving a different car. Now I can feel the issues in the rear.

It rained last night and this morning a fair amount (bye bye salt), so I put on the new EBC Yellow brake pads and drove the car 30-40 miles of city driving to 'clean' the rotors and burn the abrasive section off the pad as rcommended by EBC - tomorrow I'll be onto 'burning them in' with 5 or 6 consecutive 60-20mph brake stabs. And I can finally say, after completing the manual brake swap, that these pads with the oversized calipers actually make the car stop comfortably. I was somewhat concerned until tonight because it really didn't stop worth a crap, but I'm blaming the no name pads that were on the rolling frame when I got it and the new rotors. The wear pattern was about a 1/4 of the pad when I removed them lol. It was so terrible that my line lock wouldn't hold the car during a burnout - that issue is now gone.

 

[Texas82GP]

Those EBC yellow stuff pads really bite into the rotors and give impressive performance. They aren't for daily driving though. They don't last long.