On the 'mildly' Cheap SS Monte Carlo chasing a 9.0____(oil pan woes)

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,704
1
12,213
113
Upstate NY
Yeah, those holes aren't helping. The MCSS airbox is designed to use air velocity from a high pressure area at the grill moving across the HXs and to the low pressure area behind the HXs. If I was going to make a suggestion it would be to seal up the stock ducting, divorce the intercooler from that area and lay it flat, put a scoop under the car to feed it (you can even make it adjustable for track vs street), and duct it to the low pressure area behind the core support. Isolate it from the heat source and give it a dedicated air stream. Its what I did with my TBSS. That will help both your IATs and any future demands on your cooling system from things like towing.

Edit: Oil pressure isn't oil volume. Pressure doesn't bleed the pan, volume does. You should see upwards of 70psi with the shims and porting.
I'm concerned about the bolded sentence. I've thought that as a possibility. I can seal the holes easily, move the bottom of the cooler rearward and and put the chin spoiler on it. I'm n a quandry at the moment of what to do. Try using the factory grill opening, or blow holes in all of it and make more like a conventional (non-enduro bumper) G body front end. Be advised - I don't give a crap about cutting up the bumper cover, but it would be a shame if another option worked better or effectively.

Not sure yet. I've about talked myself into more radiator though lol. Probably order a Champion CC162 from Jegs today.
 
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motorheadmike

Geezer
Nov 18, 2009
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Saskatchewan, Truckistan
I'm concerned about the bolded sentence. I've thought that as a possibility. I can seal the holes easily, move the bottom of the cooler rearward and and put the chin spoiler on it. I'm n a quandry at the moment of what to do. Try using the factory grill opening, or blow holes in all of it and make more like a conventional (non-enduro bumper) G body front end. Be advised - I don't give a crap about cutting up the bumper cover, but it would be a shame if another option worked better or effectively.

Not sure yet. I've about talked myself into more radiator though lol. Probably order a Champion CC162 from Jegs today.

Thing is my MCSS (currently, may build one out of aluminum) has the air box deleted. But, I went hog wild sealing the crap out of the rad to the core support, I am running a lower air dam, and using a junkyard Ford fan and a homemade shroud.

If you were building a Corvette or 3rd Gen Firebird how would you do this?
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
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Western MN
Nice to see the little sky-wheelie :)


Do you have or have access to a gopro or other camera you can stick under the nose while driving?

It would be awesome to tape some yarn between the bumper/grill and the core support and SEE where the air is flowing before you go crazy with cutting holes or adding ducting.

What timing/boost did you have when it pushed water? I am a bit surprised to hear that it happened with ARP bolts and MLS gaskets. Stock bolts and paper gaskets sure but with your setup that is surprising. Is it possible to set up a safety in TermX with a coolant pressure sensor so it hits limp mode if it pushes combustion into the coolant? I know that works with the dominator and higher grade stuff.


As far as the IAT issue, my HX is mounted in the same general place yours is but I am lucky enough that the GP has grates in the bumper directly in front of the HX. I thought about ducting but I have 5F water temp rise over ambient so I haven't put any more efforts into it.
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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If you were building a Corvette or 3rd Gen Firebird how would you do this?
Not sure. I assume from your question that they have the same deal going?

I thought 3rd gens were quite wide open in there. Vette's are always a packaging disaster regardless of the generation imo.
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,704
1
12,213
113
Upstate NY
Nice to see the little sky-wheelie :)


Do you have or have access to a gopro or other camera you can stick under the nose while driving?

It would be awesome to tape some yarn between the bumper/grill and the core support and SEE where the air is flowing before you go crazy with cutting holes or adding ducting.

What timing/boost did you have when it pushed water? I am a bit surprised to hear that it happened with ARP bolts and MLS gaskets. Stock bolts and paper gaskets sure but with your setup that is surprising. Is it possible to set up a safety in TermX with a coolant pressure sensor so it hits limp mode if it pushes combustion into the coolant? I know that works with the dominator and higher grade stuff.


As far as the IAT issue, my HX is mounted in the same general place yours is but I am lucky enough that the GP has grates in the bumper directly in front of the HX. I thought about ducting but I have 5F water temp rise over ambient so I haven't put any more efforts into it.
View attachment 180804
Did you delete the contraption in there or was it not there to begin with?


I'm quite certain I hurt it the week before. I referenced a noise that it made on the last run. I heard that noise again on the 3rd run this week. It also pushed out about a pint of coolant on this week's 3rd run. So I topped it off and turned up the boost lol. Then it made the noise more consistently on the 4th run and I 'm missing a gallon of coolant. Last week I put the wood to it trying to make more boost via additional dome pressure and timing - yes timing. I'm pretty sure that started the mayhem.

I did get it to 26psi on the last run lol.
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
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Western MN
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,649
13,565
113
Western MN
Did you delete the contraption in there or was it not there to begin with?


I'm quite certain I hurt it the week before. I referenced a noise that it made on the last run. I heard that noise again on the 3rd run this week. It also pushed out about a pint of coolant on this week's 3rd run. So I topped it off and turned up the boost lol. Then it made the noise more consistently on the 4th run and I 'm missing a gallon of coolant. Last week I put the wood to it trying to make more boost via additional dome pressure and timing - yes timing. I'm pretty sure that started the mayhem.

I did get it to 26psi on the last run lol.

The 2+2's never had ducting. Mine never had it and I saw a really low mile all original one also that didn't have any ducting.
 

64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,704
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Upstate NY
What was the IAT? lol
I haven't looked closely at that run yet, I've been busy like beaver tearing it apart. But I'll fathom a guess that they were in the 200 range.

Just got back from machine shop - heads are flat and valve recession is good.
 
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