I have the crusader fronts, with I think AK valving. I have only used them on no prep racing so far. I was full tight compression and 3 from full loose on rebound.
On the 'mildly' Cheap SS Monte Carlo chasing a 9.0____(oil pan woes)
- Thread starter 64nailhead
- Start date
I went with the warrior valving. Thanks for the info, I think crusaders are tighter so hopefully mine won't be too loose!
$150
But straight from viking-
The Warriors are offered double or triple adjustable shocks that have fixed digressive compression and rebound valving. They are a good street/strip set up and generally work great on most applications up to 600-700 HP. The Crusaders are a competition specific shock that are also offered in double or triple adjustable. The main difference with the Crusaders is the interchangeable progressive rebound valving. There is 7 different rebound valving to select from based on HP level, intended use, suspension type, tire type, etc. Since this Crusader rebound valving can produce more aggressive force it has more robust internals.
The point in which Warrior valving is not enough greatly depends upon the application. A good chassis tuner can make the Warriors work at some pretty high HP levels, but instant center location is critical and front shock travel/front weight ballast is also critical.
If your Camaro is still a leaf spring equipped car the Warriors will work with a good amount of power since that suspension likes to see a lot of front end travel. The great thing about the Crusaders is you can revalve the shocks yourself without sending them back into us. The revalve kit is $15. If you car is right on that 600-700HP edge we recommend going with the Crusader shocks in the AD or AK valving. If you add more power down the road and end up going full tight on either of those rebound valving you can purchase the $15 revalve kit, such as the AP tie down valving, and have a completely different force tuning range to work with. The Crusaders are a shock that can grow with the car.
I have a 10x10 pop up tent that would help with the shade. Stop by, pick it up on your way, drop it off on your back thru.
For the love of god, don't tell me that now I have to become a chassis tuner too? I'll be 60yrs old before I figure that stuff out. All instant center conversations make my head spin. Try to find two people in a row to explain the best instant center point in a row.
Kidding aside, I need to learn more about this, and soon. Chris and wingnutz are correct that my front end is hurting me. IC??? Forget about that. I'm happy that it doesn't feel like a canoe ready to capsize on the hit anymore because of the ARB.
When u get a chance climb under the car and measure ur bar angles... Use ur frame as a zero reference. With that I can tell u were ur at.
The lower arms go up .5 degrees and the upper bars go down 16.5-16.7 degrees.
These measurements are in relation to the frame being the zero reference.
16* is alot. Mine seperates fast and I think I'm at 13*. If you have adjustability in ur rear shocks u prob need alot of rebound damping.
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