Thanks Shawn. I try to have realistic goals. I don’t expect much because I know how much I’ve struggled in the past. Main goals are to finish and have a PB at some point - and definitely to have a good time. Scattering something in the 1st day or two will be about the only thing that will be disappointing. Like I mentioned above, if I can make it to Thurs/Fri without a limp (haha), then I’ll be doing my damndest to see what it’ll do.
I don't have a wife, and my company sponsors my money pit. Pretty much a Ponzi scheme to bankrupt myself. Lol
Can completely confirm not using a 4L80e if I planned to do this again.Yes, new title. And it probably needed to be changed after 4 months. Hopefully it doesn't take me another 2+ years to get there.
And no, not throwing 'my purse' at it. When a set of Trickflow/AFR heads and/or a Reid case 80E or TH400 with proper internals show up, then I'll say I threw my purse at it. Check post #684 - I didn't drop the jing for the 2000hp converter that I could 'grow into' - it was only another $1100 which seems like a lot. In the big picture of this things though, that isn't an 'out of the question' amount of money - I think I can use the additional money elsewhere with more benefit or NHRA legalness (like perhaps a chute). If I threw my purse at it, then it would be running 8.50's.
Regarding the new goal, Wallace Race calculator indicates I need 900whp (1000 crank) to get to a 9.00000. Saying the last dyno I was on was accurate - 820 blowing through the converter at low boost of 25psi has me thinking that I should darn be close to the numbers Wallace indicates I need at that low of a boost setting. Obviously there is a lot that I have to get working correctly to run another 9.4/9.5, and trying to get everything right in 5 track days is not as easy as it sounds based on my experience. But if I can get it sorted out, then 35psi here I come
I had to decide if I wanted a street car or race car when we were deciding what to put in it. The OD sold me on the street car idea of the build. But as time has gone by (and I’ve bought parts), dang a TH400 is cheaper. If I end up swapping to 3.55 or 3.31gears, then I’ll really be kicking myself. Converter and valve body alone are about $1k cheaper. The biggest benefit of the electronic trans is the tune - it drives at light throttle like the motor is stock without bone jarring, low load shifts because of the ability to tune the line pressure via throttle position.
I agree, overdrive is nice, but I ran a basic manual valvebody transbrake t-400 in my car going 8.80's. If I had $2200 in my whole setup was a lot. It was similar to the ones that are advertised good for 8-850hp.
The 1st paragraph is funny.
110% agree. I did not spend the money initially where it would have made the most effect. I would have spent much less with what I know now.
