Opinions on body filler???

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Cletus

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 27, 2017
22
35
13
Sedro Woolley, WA.
Dear Hive Mind -

I'm trying to formulate a plan for fixing my hood, it's a factory 1980 Cutlass hood with an aftermarket ABS cowl scoop, the body work is about 20 years old and the filler is falling apart around the scoop. I will be grinding out the old filler, removing the scoop, cleaning up the area where the scoop meets the hood and using a 3M bonding agent and counter sunk screws to re-attach it. I have used Bondo before, but I'm looking at other options for filler to use for this job. I want it to look how it did 10 years ago where there was no seam.

I am hearing good stuff about Evercoat Kitty Hair, so far that's the favorite. Anyone have experience with this product or others that would be recommended for this? How much different is their product called Tiger Hair?

Any other products you would recommend besides those I'm already looking at?

Any tips or tricks I should know about using these products that would be different from Bondo?

Thanks in advance,
Steve
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
9,590
12,611
113
Michigan
I have been using Evercoat EverGlass Short Strand Reinforced Body Filler on my Regal and really like this stuff.
 
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pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
9,122
15,255
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Elderton, Pa
I'd avoid regular bodyfillers other than the final blocking/leveling. A good adhesive formulated for unlike substrates (3M, SEM, Lord-Fusior) with enough work time to make sure the scoop is able to be positioned without having to reclean/glue if not where you want it. When you use the hairy fillers put it on light & build it up, keeping in mind too thin or too thick leads to their own headaches after everything is done. Another way is fiberglass cloth & resin.
 

Doug Chahoy

Comic Book Super Hero
Nov 21, 2016
2,564
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Tiger Hair 1st layer,Dura-glass 2nd layer after forementioned bonding adhesive. The brands I mentioned are the original long and short strand fiberglass fillers. I'v been using them for over 40 years. Cloth around the seam would be a good idea for strength and durability. Use it with the Tiger Hair like you would drywall seam taping.
 
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Cletus

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 27, 2017
22
35
13
Sedro Woolley, WA.
I'd avoid regular bodyfillers other than the final blocking/leveling. A good adhesive formulated for unlike substrates (3M, SEM, Lord-Fusior) with enough work time to make sure the scoop is able to be positioned without having to reclean/glue if not where you want it. When you use the hairy fillers put it on light & build it up, keeping in mind too thin or too thick leads to their own headaches after everything is done. Another way is fiberglass cloth & resin.

Yep, planning to use a 3M body panel adhesive, I don't think work time should be a problem at the adhesive stage, I'm planning to use the original holes that have rivets in them now but counter sink them on top so I can run flat sheet metal screws down through, that way I won't have to spend a bunch of time trying to position the scoop.

Thanks!
-Steve
 

jlcustomz

G-Body Guru
Nov 22, 2011
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The 3-m is pretty strong & rough up both the metal & plastic & it should hold good.
Here's the issue though. Abs & steel expand & contract at different rates. Trying to fill over abs flange to the steel will always make a bad shadow line, even if the product never actually cracks . Unless you set up a plastic add on to look like an add on ( not filled over) the area will always show up at the seam. More so with dark colors that get back in forth in high heat & cold.
This is just the laws of physics. Stranded products will help though.
 
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Cletus

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Dec 27, 2017
22
35
13
Sedro Woolley, WA.
The 3-m is pretty strong & rough up both the metal & plastic & it should hold good.
Here's the issue though. Abs & steel expand & contract at different rates. Trying to fill over abs flange to the steel will always make a bad shadow line, even if the product never actually cracks . Unless you set up a plastic add on to look like an add on ( not filled over) the area will always show up at the seam. More so with dark colors that get back in forth in high heat & cold.
This is just the laws of physics. Stranded products will help though.
Understood. Whatever it is will look way better than it does now, and if it lasts another 5 or 10 years without cracking I'll be happy.
 
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