OPINIONS WANTED: Best G-body Pre-bent Brake Line Vendor.

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69hurstolds

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Jan 2, 2006
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Been toying with the idea of either making my own brake lines, or taking the easy way out and getting pre-bent brake lines for the 85 442. Cursory searches end up with a bunch of 1/2 baked kits or pieces.

I'm not concerned about price, but I am concerned about fit and quality. I don't want to rebend other people's shiit that I'm paying good money for them to bend (within reason, nothing's perfect) and also the quality of the brake lines.

Ideally, obviously, it would be great to open the box, unbend the front to rear line, then drop in the axle lines. But not sure that's feasible.

PST? ILT? Right Stuff? Who'd you use? And how did it fit and how would you consider the quality of the parts you chose?
 

melloelky

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Oct 22, 2017
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i used stainless from inline about ten years ago for my elco and it went well.brake and fuel for the chassis/master cly.mine needed small tweaking by hand.i can't speak to the rear diff brake line fitment as i had to make my own for the 9". again that was ten years or so ago.
 
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69hurstolds

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I would go with The Right Stuff if they make one. Classic Tube kits are nice, too.
Hmm. Right Stuff didn't have complete kits. They seem to for older vehicles, but not 84-up. ILT has the SS for 179 plus shipping. Classic tube..about the same for the SS kit.
 

79 USA 1

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Sep 2, 2011
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Up to about a year ago I had worked for Classic Tube so while you may think I'd be biased, I no longer have a dog in that hunt. So here goes.............
The product Classic Tube builds is a quality part. Their stainless tubing flares well and normally does not require the tighten, loosen, re-tighten, multiple times to get the flares to seal. Also their tubing up to 3/8 diameter is sourced from the USA. Most tube nuts are also USA made as well as the armor guard (Spring Wrap) for their lines. If you buy the lines from Classic Tube I strongly suggest blowing the debris out of the tubes before installation. It was a step I always took on the lines I produced but not everyone working in the shop are "Car Guys". I always built products as if I would be the end user. I also produced lines for some big name chassis builders so again I built the parts as if I was the end user. If you order from NPD, G-Body parts, you will be purchasing a Classic Tube part, just an FYI. As far as fit I cannot speak on a g body brake line kit but I had installed a OE steel kit in my Dads 93 F-150 and it required no adjustment in fit. Same with a stainless F-150 kit I purchased for a family friend, dropped in with no issues. Same with a 57 Chevy Stainless kit and a 71 Chevelle stainless kit.
Don't know if this will help or not, I no longer can vouch for the quality of the parts due to seeing the change to non car guys working in the shop but they still have a level of quality the owner expects in all products not just the Mustang world he is heavily involved in.
If you purchase Classic Tube over the phone, Cliff Schultz or Tim Slattery are the salesmen to talk to.
 
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CopperNick

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Went with Stainless tube and bought it in bulk rolls. Bought the correct bending tools and a 37.5 degree flaring tool for the fittings because stainless does not like to be double flared like standard steel or copper tube and can split.(Obviously there are at least a couple of greyer beards out there who have successfully double flared stainless. I am not one of them) Also bought the correct fittings to plumb the master cylinder and drums/calipers. Jegs and Russell were my go to sources for most of what I needed. The only thing to watch for is that the front circuit is 3/16ths tube and the back is 1/4. Oh yeah, remember to put the nut and sleeve on first, unless you haven't completed the other end and can still slip them on that way, and do not try to get your bends and curves too tight or the tube will kink.
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,195
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Went with Stainless tube and bought it in bulk rolls. Bought the correct bending tools and a 37.5 degree flaring tool for the fittings because stainless does not like to be double flared like standard steel or copper tube and can split.(Obviously there are at least a couple of greyer beards out there who have successfully double flared stainless. I am not one of them) Also bought the correct fittings to plumb the master cylinder and drums/calipers. Jegs and Russell were my go to sources for most of what I needed. The only thing to watch for is that the front circuit is 3/16ths tube and the back is 1/4. Oh yeah, remember to put the nut and sleeve on first, unless you haven't completed the other end and can still slip them on that way, and do not try to get your bends and curves too tight or the tube will kink.
Good to know. I've flared a lot of tube in my day, but not stainless. But regardless of which way I go, it'll be stainless this go-round. I don't want to ever do it again. And I probably won't. I'm getting too old for this shiit.

$179 from Classic Tube is really tempting. Time is money. And not bending stainless is a good thing.
 
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