Orange peel and another issue

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Tony1968

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This is the type of finish I have all over the car after spraying one sealer coat then 3 coats of single stage. Just would like any feedback on how I should wet sand then polish. Also last picture is passenger door above handle. I have absolutely no idea how this one happened. I used dry guide coat at every step including 400-600 wet. This was not there and I just noticed it. Can I scuff it and dab some paint to build up before all the paint corrections?
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57 Handyman

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Feb 6, 2017
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Tony, here are a few questions that come to mind. Is this your first time painting? What kind of spray gun? What is nozzle orifice and your spray gun pressure setting? Did you reduce (mix) the paint per manufacturer technical data sheet? What was ambient temperature during painting and did you use the appropriate reducer based on temperature? How far was your gun from the paint surface?
 
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Tony1968

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Tony, here are a few questions that come to mind. Is this your first time painting? What kind of spray gun? What is nozzle orifice and your spray gun pressure setting? Did you reduce (mix) the paint per manufacturer technical data sheet? What was ambient temperature during painting and did you use the appropriate reducer based on temperature? How far was your gun from the paint surface?
First time painting. Anest iwata 1.3 that i tried from 20 to 30psi and settled on 25. Yes mixed properly and added 5-6% medium reducer. Garage temp was 75 at beginning and around 82 when done. I'd say around 6 inches from surface however I have some physical problems that makes it hard to be consistent.
 

pagrunt

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Sep 14, 2014
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Another factor, how humid? Humidity can screw with painting. Too slow of a thinner/reducer with humidity can one cause for humidity based issues Even with the fastest with high humidity will still see issues. Sometimes it's better to start before the crack of dawn so humidity is at the lowest point for a hot day. Also that 1.3 tip isn't ideal for primers or sealers. Should be like a 1.5 to I'd say a 1.8 tip. Could go above 1.8 but that'll be getting into some thicker material.
 
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CopperNick

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Feb 20, 2018
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The orange peel pocking in the paint can't be painted out easily, While you can attempt it by applying additional coats to try to fill the depressions, you run the risk of having your shots either run or sag if you get too close to the surface. Getting rid of the orange peel is an exercise in sanding and will usually mean having to go in with 320-400 Wet-Dry paper and wet sand the coat down until the dimples disappear. It might be useful to shoot a second coat of your color before you try wet sanding as that would give you an additional amount of thickness as a security or buffer layer that could keep you from sanding through to the primer.

As a resource suggestion, google Kevin Tetz paintucation; he offers on line tutorials and guidance for aspiring painters. One of his videos might be able to offer some theories or advice as to why your shot orange peeled on you.



Nick
 
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Tony1968

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Another factor, how humid? Humidity can screw with painting. Too slow of a thinner/reducer with humidity can one cause for humidity based issues Even with the fastest with high humidity will still see issues. Sometimes it's better to start before the crack of dawn so humidity is at the lowest point for a hot day. Also that 1.3 tip isn't ideal for primers or sealers. Should be like a 1.5 to I'd say a 1.8 tip. Could go above 1.8 but that'll be getting into some thicker material.
Actually the humidity is/was higher earlier in the morning. Can't remember exactly but I think it was 70%. It was 57% after last coat (#3)
The thinned epoxy as sealer recommended tip was 1.3 to 1.5
 
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melloelky

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Oct 22, 2017
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congrats on spraying it @home Tony,more times than not it's less than ideal,even w/small stuff let alone the shell of a car (y) that homemade incubator you concocted proved to work as there's little dust.based on the close up pic it'd say it's from being to close,three coats is decent but you won't know if there's enough material there to make it semi flat-polish it all out and not burn through until you get into it all.those stripes on the roof are the larger concern as they look like dry spray(that's a lack of material)and that usually never comes out 100%. as far as those chips,you can prep the area blow some color in but the end after buff back usually results in a halo but being white it's not to bad.everyone's different and being just a door i'd use this opportunity to respray the door in an attempt to have it lay out flatter reducing the amount of peel at the same time.
 
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08Malibu

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Feb 9, 2014
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As long as you have enough material, and the roughness is in the paint and not the sealer, you may be able to get it decent. Someone suggested adding another coat, but that’s not an option now. You’re going to have to sand it down again if you want to add more paint. Id try knocking it down with 800,1000,1500,2000,3000 on the worst areas. See if you get satisfactory results, then proceed. If you’re not happy, sand it down and paint again.
As for the area above the handle you may be able to scuff it and add touch up. Be sure to catalyze it properly and sand it down with a hard block, wood or acrylic, so it’s even with the surface before polishing.
 
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Crazy4elkys

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Dec 3, 2017
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I feel like the epoxy is where the orange peel started. The epoxy I use directs me to mix it and wait 30 mins before sealing. This makes a world of difference on the finish!
Now as far as you car finish, use a thin flex 3m block and water sand the car with 600 grit. Spray on last coat of white with a gravity gun. Good luck
 
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Tony1968

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Did some wet sanding. Not great but better. Hopefully polishing helps. Just a 2x2 area on roof and behind quarter glass
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