Factory style replacement on my Regal
And a Canton recirculating 2 qt. aluminum can on my Monte
And a Canton recirculating 2 qt. aluminum can on my Monte
over flow tank not working
- Thread starter scarborough
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thank for photos. the tank on your regal is basically the same type container as the one on my cutlass with just the one hose . did the radiator caps your using come with the radiator when you purchase them or they just regular pressure relief cap for a factory radiator . When I call champion radiator they said I can only use a cap that's made for aluminum radiator which the local part store don't carry. and the only cap they have seems to be the same one that came with the radiator I purchased. by the way nice engine bay. I would like to suggest there be a engine bay of the month right.., I'm sure there are guys who put a lot of money, thought and work as you seem to have done to make their bay look like a work of art (like the regal ) good job ....... thanks again
I have always used Stant caps with the relief valve on all my aluminum radiators even the Champion that is in my Regal and I have never had any issues or ever bought a cap specifically for an aluminum radiator.
By the way this is a full shot of the Monte engine bay which has a monster Griffen radiator in there.
I know most of y'all know this, but there's always a few that don't get the whole picture and may need a refresh.
I see 565bbchevy has a 16 lb Stant on his radiator and based on his experience he said it was fine. The way I see it, if you get one of those ACDelco RC-27 or RC-15, or whatever fits your radiator, you can run at 15 lbs. which these caps are rated and should be just fine. And still retain the 2-way capabilities. Not all caps have the 2-way feature. Turn the cap over and check to see if it has a "center reverse acting valve" in it. If it does, it's a 2-way. Champion website shows only 3 radiator caps, two 16 lb caps and one 13 lb cap. Best advice is to go by the manufacturer's recommendations for their products. But I don't know what a "aluminum radiator specific" radiator cap is, to be honest. What's so special about it?
As GM built it- recall that the radiator cap has really only one main function, and that's to allow pressure rise in the system to raise the boiling point of the coolant. Typically this is about 2-3 degrees F for every pound above atmospheric. So a 16 lb cap should give you give or take 40 degrees padding. Adding mixed water/anti-freeze is also giving you about another 10 degrees. So you're around 260 degrees or so before your coolant boils over.
The secondary functions, but still pretty important, is to allow pressure relief, and helps keep the water pump impeller from cavitating. The fancy radiator 2-way caps for semi-closed systems like the G-body are to allow the radiator to be fuller initially, and allow expansion of the coolant to the overflow tank when the coolant heats up. So at operating temperature, the fluid expands to fill the system completely, so theoretically there should be little, if any, air in the system. The excess flows into the overflow tank, and then when the car is shut off and cools down, the system fluid contracts and pulls a vacuum on the overflow tank to pull back fluid that was previously displaced by expansion through the reverse valve in the center of the cap. Thus, still keeping the system full. This is why there's normally a "FULL COLD" and "FULL HOT" markings on the overflow tanks. If your tank is emptying or going lower and lower in a short amount of time (some evaporation can occur on hardly driven vehicles as the overflow tank is vented), then you may have a leak somewhere. Plus, an empty overflow tank when hot means you'll just suck air into the system when it cools down again. Bad.
Conversely, if you get your engine up to operating temps and your overflow level has not changed, you're system is probably too low and need to check it (when cold). Or the cap is fubar and needs replacing. NEVER EVER take the radiator cap loose when the car is hot. Let it cool down completely.
Always check your cap's condition periodically. Springs weaken and can corrode, gaskets get worn, and the cap eventually fails. They're usually pretty durable, but not indestructible. They're fairly cheap to replace, so while it may be overkill, at least check it every oil change. And maybe replace it when you do your periodic radiator coolant flush and fill. I think they used to even put on the way older caps to check every spring and fall. But I don't recall specifically what year that was.
I see 565bbchevy has a 16 lb Stant on his radiator and based on his experience he said it was fine. The way I see it, if you get one of those ACDelco RC-27 or RC-15, or whatever fits your radiator, you can run at 15 lbs. which these caps are rated and should be just fine. And still retain the 2-way capabilities. Not all caps have the 2-way feature. Turn the cap over and check to see if it has a "center reverse acting valve" in it. If it does, it's a 2-way. Champion website shows only 3 radiator caps, two 16 lb caps and one 13 lb cap. Best advice is to go by the manufacturer's recommendations for their products. But I don't know what a "aluminum radiator specific" radiator cap is, to be honest. What's so special about it?
As GM built it- recall that the radiator cap has really only one main function, and that's to allow pressure rise in the system to raise the boiling point of the coolant. Typically this is about 2-3 degrees F for every pound above atmospheric. So a 16 lb cap should give you give or take 40 degrees padding. Adding mixed water/anti-freeze is also giving you about another 10 degrees. So you're around 260 degrees or so before your coolant boils over.
The secondary functions, but still pretty important, is to allow pressure relief, and helps keep the water pump impeller from cavitating. The fancy radiator 2-way caps for semi-closed systems like the G-body are to allow the radiator to be fuller initially, and allow expansion of the coolant to the overflow tank when the coolant heats up. So at operating temperature, the fluid expands to fill the system completely, so theoretically there should be little, if any, air in the system. The excess flows into the overflow tank, and then when the car is shut off and cools down, the system fluid contracts and pulls a vacuum on the overflow tank to pull back fluid that was previously displaced by expansion through the reverse valve in the center of the cap. Thus, still keeping the system full. This is why there's normally a "FULL COLD" and "FULL HOT" markings on the overflow tanks. If your tank is emptying or going lower and lower in a short amount of time (some evaporation can occur on hardly driven vehicles as the overflow tank is vented), then you may have a leak somewhere. Plus, an empty overflow tank when hot means you'll just suck air into the system when it cools down again. Bad.
Conversely, if you get your engine up to operating temps and your overflow level has not changed, you're system is probably too low and need to check it (when cold). Or the cap is fubar and needs replacing. NEVER EVER take the radiator cap loose when the car is hot. Let it cool down completely.
Always check your cap's condition periodically. Springs weaken and can corrode, gaskets get worn, and the cap eventually fails. They're usually pretty durable, but not indestructible. They're fairly cheap to replace, so while it may be overkill, at least check it every oil change. And maybe replace it when you do your periodic radiator coolant flush and fill. I think they used to even put on the way older caps to check every spring and fall. But I don't recall specifically what year that was.
Addendum: this is the reason that the factory tank has an internal tube that draws from the bottom of the tank. Any air in the cooling system will accumulate at the top of the radiator if it is the highest point in the system. Over pressure pushes the air out first, if any, then coolant. When the system cools down it should draw only liquid back in. Keep any sludge cleaned out of the tank or your cooling system will suck it back in.
My old square-body C20 used to overheat at traffic lights. I kept topping it off. I could never find a drip or leak anywhere. I later discovered that the tank had a hairline crack on the back - the liquid would evaporate and the radiator would suck air back in when it cooled down.
My old square-body C20 used to overheat at traffic lights. I kept topping it off. I could never find a drip or leak anywhere. I later discovered that the tank had a hairline crack on the back - the liquid would evaporate and the radiator would suck air back in when it cooled down.
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Aww man! Taking a bath in hot radiator fluid is always so much fun. (Yes a smart arse remark). Did radiator repair for 10 years. Seen some crazy “repairs” and even more “How did that happen?”. Good to see the lesson is still out there.I know most of y'all know this, but there's always a few that don't get the whole picture and may need a refresh.
I see 565bbchevy has a 16 lb Stant on his radiator and based on his experience he said it was fine. The way I see it, if you get one of those ACDelco RC-27 or RC-15, or whatever fits your radiator, you can run at 15 lbs. which these caps are rated and should be just fine. And still retain the 2-way capabilities. Not all caps have the 2-way feature. Turn the cap over and check to see if it has a "center reverse acting valve" in it. If it does, it's a 2-way. Champion website shows only 3 radiator caps, two 16 lb caps and one 13 lb cap. Best advice is to go by the manufacturer's recommendations for their products. But I don't know what a "aluminum radiator specific" radiator cap is, to be honest. What's so special about it?
As GM built it- recall that the radiator cap has really only one main function, and that's to allow pressure rise in the system to raise the boiling point of the coolant. Typically this is about 2-3 degrees F for every pound above atmospheric. So a 16 lb cap should give you give or take 40 degrees padding. Adding mixed water/anti-freeze is also giving you about another 10 degrees. So you're around 260 degrees or so before your coolant boils over.
The secondary functions, but still pretty important, is to allow pressure relief, and helps keep the water pump impeller from cavitating. The fancy radiator 2-way caps for semi-closed systems like the G-body are to allow the radiator to be fuller initially, and allow expansion of the coolant to the overflow tank when the coolant heats up. So at operating temperature, the fluid expands to fill the system completely, so theoretically there should be little, if any, air in the system. The excess flows into the overflow tank, and then when the car is shut off and cools down, the system fluid contracts and pulls a vacuum on the overflow tank to pull back fluid that was previously displaced by expansion through the reverse valve in the center of the cap. Thus, still keeping the system full. This is why there's normally a "FULL COLD" and "FULL HOT" markings on the overflow tanks. If your tank is emptying or going lower and lower in a short amount of time (some evaporation can occur on hardly driven vehicles as the overflow tank is vented), then you may have a leak somewhere. Plus, an empty overflow tank when hot means you'll just suck air into the system when it cools down again. Bad.
Conversely, if you get your engine up to operating temps and your overflow level has not changed, you're system is probably too low and need to check it (when cold). Or the cap is fubar and needs replacing. NEVER EVER take the radiator cap loose when the car is hot. Let it cool down completely.
Always check your cap's condition periodically. Springs weaken and can corrode, gaskets get worn, and the cap eventually fails. They're usually pretty durable, but not indestructible. They're fairly cheap to replace, so while it may be overkill, at least check it every oil change. And maybe replace it when you do your periodic radiator coolant flush and fill. I think they used to even put on the way older caps to check every spring and fall. But I don't recall specifically what year that was.
Other thing is ALWAYS tell the repair person what you put in the system to patch it!! Dam near got killed by a guy that used stuff that when it turned to vapor under the torch could cause respiratory failure if breathed to much.
Every day stuff but the right conditions, not good.
This is clarification:
1. When hot the radiator cap allows coolant to exit the radiator via the metal tube. thru the hose into the bottom of the tank In the old days it would just "pop the cap"
2. As the engine cools down the pressure differential changes and the coolant is drawn back into the engine
3. Keeping the reservoir at the FULL COLD level will not allow the engine to suck air unless you are low on coolant and the amount in the reservoir is less than the required capacity of the engine coolant.
4. The coolant recovery tank has a "FULL COLD" mark and HOT mark.
5. Notice that cars of today do not have caps at the radiator that you can check, instead the fill point is at the coolant overflow reservoir.
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you maybe right. I got a email response from champion regarding using a Stant pressure relief cap, they said I could use it just make sure the plunger deep are the same.
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