Painting interior panels

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1972cutlass

Greasemonkey
Aug 24, 2009
111
0
16
Has anyone painted there door panels,dash,pillars,kickpanels.what was the finest grade of sand paper you had to sand to so when you painted it the paint was smooth not bumpy example 120 grit down to 400 grit.And what tupe of paint did you use.
 

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81Regal

Royal Smart Person
Apr 5, 2009
1,558
485
83
Terril Iowa
First don't paint the panels, get the correct DYE for vinyl parts wether it is in a spray can or through a paint gun. If your panels are starting to flake or fall apart, you will not end up good results.
Second there should be no need to sand the panels unless you want a smooth look, just clean the panels and use some adheasion promoter. Dyeing panels there is no such thing as too clean.
 

Bonnewagon

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Supporting Member
Sep 18, 2009
10,540
14,217
113
Queens, NY
I use SEM flexible paint, as most guys here. Great stuff. I only ever had to sand panels once on a 77' TA, rear inside quarters, and they were pretty flakey and crumbly. I used 180 grit to get the loose stuff off, then 120. The SEM will fill in scratches if you use lots of thin coats. Wasn't perfect, but passable.
 

madmaxstyle

Greasemonkey
Jul 21, 2009
216
0
0
Alberta
I used a steel wool pad that wasnt actually steel wool. It came with my sander for finishing/polishing chrome or something. It was similar in texture though and cleaned it till it looked spotless (even in the grooves) then I washed it with thinner and a rag, then washed the thinner off quick with water (like immediately) and a rag and buffed it till it was dry. Remember that you cant clean it too much - but after you apply some paint its too late.
You mainly want to wash off all oils and greases and cigarette smoke tar and so on off so the paint doesnt run/fisheye/ orange peel.
You don't need to sand it. I would imagine steel wool like an sos pad may work, but don't apply so much pressure that your cutting into the plastic and scratching up the surface.
 

JrJohnston

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 9, 2009
45
0
0
S.W. Missouri
81Regal said:
First don't paint the panels, get the correct DYE for vinyl parts wether it is in a spray can or through a paint gun. If your panels are starting to flake or fall apart, you will not end up good results.
Second there should be no need to sand the panels unless you want a smooth look, just clean the panels and use some adheasion promoter. Dyeing panels there is no such thing as too clean.



100% correct on the too clean. Wipe them down first with a wax and grease remover.
Wash them down with a mild mix of Dawn dishsaop and warm water, and use a soft scrub brush to scrub them down with, then dry them with a lint free rag or compressed air.Then apply no more than 2 coat of adhesion promoter, then your top coat of a quality dye, not that crap from dupli color.
 

gs dewd

Greasemonkey
May 25, 2008
202
1
16
Crimora, Va
I washed mine down good with soap and water.Then hit them with some prep sol and sanded them with a red scotch brite pad just to rough it up. Then washed again and prepsoled again. Then used adhesion promotor and then the dye. I just used the duplicolor stuff and it came out good.
 

350_85cutty

Master Mechanic
Sep 2, 2007
423
0
0
West, TX
my bucket seat backs were flakey and had scratches, so I sanded with 320 on a DA, then went over it with a red scotchbrite, then used Denatured Alcohol to clean it, then shot some waterborne primer we had at work to seal it, then when I get around to it, I'm gonna scuff that, and try some SEM texture paint then SEM camel color...hope the results are good
 

Phoenix

Apprentice
Jun 9, 2009
50
0
0
Kansas City, MO
I have recoated every single interior part I have. I have also converted all the interior chrome to black...both metal parts and plastic parts. Note: I use a different method for metal parts; this is what I do for plastic parts and vinyl.

You don't have to use the adhesion promoter, but you do have to have them perfectly clean.

First: wash them thoroughly in warm water with Dawn dish soap. Then rinse them thoroughly and let them dry.

Second: get some 90% isopropyl alcohol (not 70%) and a bunch of white cotton cloth from t-shirts or whatever. Put the alcohol in a spray bottle and spray the part you want to coat. Wipe it with the white cotton cloth. Repeat until nothing comes off onto the cloth. Use q-tips to get into crevices...same thing about repeat until nothing comes off. The alcohol evaporates and leaves NO residue. It also dissolves oil based and water based whatever that is on the part. While you are doing this, make sure you keep washing your hands, too, so you don't get oil from your skin on the parts. Once done, it is ready to coat. If it will be a while before you are going to, put the parts inside new clean plastic bags for storage.

Third: use SEM. In addition to the colors that are already in spray cans, they have color charts and can mix custom colors. Those cans of color aren't in a rattle can, but Preval sprayers are cheap and they produce an ultrafine mist that is even better than spray cans. The Preval is a compressed air canister that screws onto a jar where you put the paint. Lightly spray the parts for your first coat, and then once you have a mist of it on there, put on a solid thin coat. Then another. One more if you really think it is necessary. Top coat clear if you want, also. Let it dry (which is fast), and then wait a couple days before you wax it. Easy, and it won't come off. It will rub off with serious abrasion like the original coating, but you would really have to try. Normal wear is not a problem.

I've done this lots, including the steering wheel. So long as the piece is perfectly clean, it will bond perfect. So long as you don't spray it on too thick, it will look beautiful.
 

custom442

Royal Smart Person
Jul 4, 2008
1,889
4
0
Houston
ADHESION PROMOTER!

thats all i got
 

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