Parts List for a 229 V6 to a SBC 350 swap over.

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MalibuDavyou5

Master Mechanic
Mar 2, 2020
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Now that the 350 has finally arrived, The shop is going to be holding the Engine for about a month while I get some much needed parts in for the Swap. It will make the bill much lighter and make the swap over much faster if I purchase all the needed parts.

That said I have a basic idea of what is needed IE: Motor Mounts, Exhaust Manifolds, Shocks, coils, I have these things ordered as we speak, Right now I will be looking for a bargain Quadra Jet Carburetor. I am also looking into the Radiator, though I will be in need of a Shroud. I know Spark plug wires etc will be needed. I also know the accessories from the 229 will swap over to the 350. So what else am I missing?
 

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1320John$$$

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Distributor fuel pump NOS cheater kit
I would wait until the car was up and running before I tackle the suspension
 
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Wageslave

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Might hit the junkyard and get a complete accessory drive off a V8 F-body or a 4.3 S-10. Piecing together a complete set of accessory brackets and pulleys, along with the correct accessories for them can be expensive and frustrating without a donor.
 
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pagrunt

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You'll need some rad support cushions for the bigger tanks, SBC PS pressure hose. Budget wise, run the pulley's, front brackets, PS pump (if using a '76-'88 water pump).
 
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CopperNick

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You keeping the resident transmission or angling for something a little sturdier? If the 229 was mated to a TH350 then you should be golden. If it is TH200-R4 it will still bolt up but you have the TV cable to play with.

The rad shroud is shorter. When scoring it be sure you grab the rubber shoes or cradles or pockets or whatever GM calls them, two for the bottom and two for the top. If you score a junk yard refugee shroud take a close look at the flanges on both halves, A lot of shrouds got mishandled and damaged by mechanics too eager to take the time to properly disassemble them;usually cracked or missing corners on the flanges. OEM they are likely to be riveted together and those rivets are a pain to cut away without melting the plastic but it can be done. Last time I cut them I had a spray bottle of very cold water and continously sprayed the rivet and surroundind material to keeo them cold. As subs for the rivets I went to the auto supply shop and picked up a handful of panel clips and the matching screws; either 10 or 11 mm hex heads on them. You can also oversize the holes to 1/4 inch and just use 1/4 by 1/2 or 3/4 inch long bolts and buts. same-same.

Motor mounts? Most of what still can be found in the yards tend to have the rubber inserts totally clapped out. The halves are only plug welded together so they can be split and new poly-urethane inserts put in and then re welded back together. Just be careful with the heat. The front crossmember ought to have the correct set of holes in the correct pattern, that will accept the V-8 mounts. already drilled in it. The 229 bolts for the pads to frame are metric. You can try and harvest them for re-use or just carefully cut them away with a suitable tool. The resident frame mounts match what you will be looking for to use with the V-8 then use them for the guinea pigs for your new poly-U inserts. You can use 7/16ths caps and nuts in place of the metric trash for the install, just check the holes ahead of time cause sometimes they need a little rat tail file love to trim them up a little so that the bolt will drop easier (and sometimes not); the fun will come when you are fishing the bolts or nuts into position. Easier to do if the various hard lines that run through the access holes are absent orr can be had from underneath but the lower control arm is a nuisance. Stock install had the bolts going in from underneath and the nuts out on the mount. They did it that way because those mounts got installed before the suspension did.

Also think it possible that the shells or clams or ? that are bolted to the block and that mate to the pads could be re-used as well. Thinking here is that the 229 is just a 350 with two cylinders cut away meaning the exterior architecture is otherwise identical; a good chunk of the guts of it, oil pump for example are straight out of the SBC catalogue if I am seeing this correctly.



Nick
 
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ssn696

Living in the Past
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229/6 x 8 = 305.
All the accessories from the 229 should bolt right up to the 350. Fuel line needs a longer hose, and you’ll need a V8 throttle cable. The fuel pump to carb pipe is a little different for the Quadrajet. If you elect to go to the serpentine accessory setup, the water pump and fan need to both be swapped for the reverse rotation. The AC compressor is on the opposite side. You can use Camaro or Olds hoses and hard lines. Last, the transmission crossmember is different for the V8.
 
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MalibuDavyou5

Master Mechanic
Mar 2, 2020
362
772
93
Wyoming
You keeping the resident transmission or angling for something a little sturdier? If the 229 was mated to a TH350 then you should be golden. If it is TH200-R4 it will still bolt up but you have the TV cable to play with.

The rad shroud is shorter. When scoring it be sure you grab the rubber shoes or cradles or pockets or whatever GM calls them, two for the bottom and two for the top. If you score a junk yard refugee shroud take a close look at the flanges on both halves, A lot of shrouds got mishandled and damaged by mechanics too eager to take the time to properly disassemble them;usually cracked or missing corners on the flanges. OEM they are likely to be riveted together and those rivets are a pain to cut away without melting the plastic but it can be done. Last time I cut them I had a spray bottle of very cold water and continously sprayed the rivet and surroundind material to keeo them cold. As subs for the rivets I went to the auto supply shop and picked up a handful of panel clips and the matching screws; either 10 or 11 mm hex heads on them. You can also oversize the holes to 1/4 inch and just use 1/4 by 1/2 or 3/4 inch long bolts and buts. same-same.

Motor mounts? Most of what still can be found in the yards tend to have the rubber inserts totally clapped out. The halves are only plug welded together so they can be split and new poly-urethane inserts put in and then re welded back together. Just be careful with the heat. The front crossmember ought to have the correct set of holes in the correct pattern, that will accept the V-8 mounts. already drilled in it. The 229 bolts for the pads to frame are metric. You can try and harvest them for re-use or just carefully cut them away with a suitable tool. The resident frame mounts match what you will be looking for to use with the V-8 then use them for the guinea pigs for your new poly-U inserts. You can use 7/16ths caps and nuts in place of the metric trash for the install, just check the holes ahead of time cause sometimes they need a little rat tail file love to trim them up a little so that the bolt will drop easier (and sometimes not); the fun will come when you are fishing the bolts or nuts into position. Easier to do if the various hard lines that run through the access holes are absent orr can be had from underneath but the lower control arm is a nuisance. Stock install had the bolts going in from underneath and the nuts out on the mount. They did it that way because those mounts got installed before the suspension did.

Also think it possible that the shells or clams or ? that are bolted to the block and that mate to the pads could be re-used as well. Thinking here is that the 229 is just a 350 with two cylinders cut away meaning the exterior architecture is otherwise identical; a good chunk of the guts of it, oil pump for example are straight out of the SBC catalogue if I am seeing this correctly.



Nick

Thank You;

With this said if I remember correctly the Automatic Transmission is a TH350, but I still have to limit the HP to 215 maximum, The seller of the Engine told me that with the Intake Manifold that's on it, it would make around 200 HP, Yes I should be fine so long as I don't raise HP up any more. Some time in the future I will be replacing the Transmission to handle 400 HP or more.

I just gave the Mechanic all the parts that I acquired this past Monday, I still have yet to hear from him on the "Engine Test" he wants to do to it. Everything ranging from Motor Mounts, Radiator, Hoses, Exhaust Manifolds and much much more that I could think of myself that the car would need I handed over to the shop. I have to have a Mechanic put it as I don't have a shop or garage of my own, much less the equipment needed, this will be my only regret, but at least I will be able to pick the brain of the Mechanic on all he's done so I have that knowledge. Still have Body work and Interior that I will be doing myself once the weather gets a tad more warmer.

I am still in search of a Fan Shroud. Anything 350 wise, even Trucks, Pickups etc are hard to come by out here, what I have seen of the very few junk yards out here in my state are mostly 454's and those shrouds. . Maybe someone in the community has one I could purchase from them, Trying to find an after market piece that doesn't exist as they are pushing electric fans.
 

MalibuDavyou5

Master Mechanic
Mar 2, 2020
362
772
93
Wyoming
229/6 x 8 = 305.
All the accessories from the 229 should bolt right up to the 350. Fuel line needs a longer hose, and you’ll need a V8 throttle cable. The fuel pump to carb pipe is a little different for the Quadrajet. If you elect to go to the serpentine accessory setup, the water pump and fan need to both be swapped for the reverse rotation. The AC compressor is on the opposite side. You can use Camaro or Olds hoses and hard lines. Last, the transmission crossmember is different for the V8.
ssn696 Thank You,

As I understood it yes all accessories will swap right over. . Only thing is from this community and a Facebook community I am getting conflicting information on what is going to fit the V8. . And as I understand it the Engine should also just bolt right on.

The Mechanic in the Past has fully fabricated another Pump to Carb fuel line (V6) using a Flex line I think is what he called it, I am sure if need be he can make it longer.

Since we are still in the dead of winter out here I have to have a mechanic I trust put the engine in as I don't have a Garage or Shop of my own. I bought every part I could think of including what little information I got from both fore mentioned communities. All the parts I bought directly from Rock Auto. Mostly tried to buy AC Delco parts if possible, most other parts AC Delco no longer makes so I had to go with aftermarket.

Since I am for the time being keeping the Fan, I won't be going the Serpentine route. . At least not yet, I am going to keep this little bit of information handy if I do decide down the road that I should need to put this type of accessory setup into place.

Thanks.
 

Wageslave

Royal Smart Person
Jan 25, 2017
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Since I am for the time being keeping the Fan, I won't be going the Serpentine route. . At least not yet, I am going to keep this little bit of information handy if I do decide down the road that I should need to put this type of accessory setup into place.

Thanks.
The S-10 serpentine setups use a mechanical fan with the same (or very close) spacing as the factory fan. I used the S-10 fan in mine for quite a while, before I converted over to electric fans. I believe a full size C/K truck serpentine setup is the same way, but I only have experience with the S-10 ones.
 

ssn696

Living in the Past
Supporting Member
Jul 19, 2009
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I am still in search of a Fan Shroud.
Not sure on the width of the radiator side of the V6 shroud, but you could try cutting the fan side depth back to fit the longer V8 block.
 
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