You need to keep the rpm's in the operating range of the cam. A 500hp 383 is not going to want to cruise at much less than 25-2700 if it's NA. You're in a tough spot trying to cruise with a big cam. If you pick to high of a gear (lower numerically), then it will suck to drive in the 60-70mph range. We're running 3.73's with a 26.5" tire with a 200 and it's not bad. Cruising at 75 is fine. I would guess that you should be at a 3.73 or 4.11. The 4.30's will be too much unless you rarely cruise on the highway over 70.
\/ \/ if this is occurring, then you need a better converter.
The converter will not slip until power is applied if it's a decent converter. At cruise speed the converter will be 'locked' implying no slip. It will slip at a certain amount of torque, supplied by the motor, and resistance, supplied by the rolling resistance, but will 'lock' as the power is taken away. You can test this out by driving at a cruising seed and feeling the converter being locked and then snap a the throttle and see at what rpm it grabs. If you have an aggressive cam, then the 'snap' might be quite a bit. But when you ease back out of the throttle, then it should (if a good converter) lock up and drive normally. There will be a point where it will feel like it's slipping as the rpm's drop too low for the cam. It's somewhat of PITA to determine, but you'll get the idea.
\/ \/ if this is occurring, then you need a better converter.
The converter will not slip until power is applied if it's a decent converter. At cruise speed the converter will be 'locked' implying no slip. It will slip at a certain amount of torque, supplied by the motor, and resistance, supplied by the rolling resistance, but will 'lock' as the power is taken away. You can test this out by driving at a cruising seed and feeling the converter being locked and then snap a the throttle and see at what rpm it grabs. If you have an aggressive cam, then the 'snap' might be quite a bit. But when you ease back out of the throttle, then it should (if a good converter) lock up and drive normally. There will be a point where it will feel like it's slipping as the rpm's drop too low for the cam. It's somewhat of PITA to determine, but you'll get the idea.
Our wagon has 3.73s, 27.6" tall tires, and a 4L80E with a 3800rpm 9.5" lock-up converter. N/A this is a sub-optimal combo for the cam's rpm band and only somewhat satisfies the overlap (6.2°) - but, on the bottle it should be perfect. For highway driving and putting around it is nice.
The Monte is going to be running 4.56s, 29.5" tall tires, and a 200-4R with a 3000rpm 12" lock-up converter. The cam is a stock 2001 LS6 unit and has a tonne of negative overlap, so it will drive just fine in all conditions. Will it buzz on the highway? Sure. But, it will trap at peak engine speed at the track. I am willing to drive slower on the highway as a small sacrifice.
I don't suggest you compromise on gearing unless you like being disappointed or have one hell of a mitigation strategy.
The Monte is going to be running 4.56s, 29.5" tall tires, and a 200-4R with a 3000rpm 12" lock-up converter. The cam is a stock 2001 LS6 unit and has a tonne of negative overlap, so it will drive just fine in all conditions. Will it buzz on the highway? Sure. But, it will trap at peak engine speed at the track. I am willing to drive slower on the highway as a small sacrifice.
I don't suggest you compromise on gearing unless you like being disappointed or have one hell of a mitigation strategy.
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I totally forgot to mention my wife's old 2002 Z28 had 4.11s in it with 4L60E with a stock converter. That mod took it from a low-13 second slug and turned it into a mid-12 second machine. At the time I chose to do this the internet was still convinced it wouldn't help much - obviously they were wrong (LS1tech often is). Highway driving and my marriage suffered from this choice... and leaving the exhaust cutout open all the time didn't help either. LOL.
But, then there is my old Turbo Buick that had 3.08s with a TH400 and a 3300 rpm converter on a short sidewall 26" tall drag radial. Funny, the internet also told me the car would be slower with those gears vs. the stock 3.42s (or the 3.73s I took out of this car). The gearing change forced the car to remain lower in the rev-range where it made the best power (torque for days).
My point is it depends on the car and what you want to do with it. Have you taken it to the track? What RPM does it go through the traps at? If it is a dog through the traps (low in the powerband) you obviously need more gear. Our TBSS is like this; despite having 4.10s a built 4L70E with a loose converter on 28" tall drag radials and 650hp it still chugs through the traps (11.9 @ 116mph) well below peak power because it weighs 5300lbs.
But, if you want me to ballpark it? No less than 4.11s and no more than 4.56s.
But, then there is my old Turbo Buick that had 3.08s with a TH400 and a 3300 rpm converter on a short sidewall 26" tall drag radial. Funny, the internet also told me the car would be slower with those gears vs. the stock 3.42s (or the 3.73s I took out of this car). The gearing change forced the car to remain lower in the rev-range where it made the best power (torque for days).
My point is it depends on the car and what you want to do with it. Have you taken it to the track? What RPM does it go through the traps at? If it is a dog through the traps (low in the powerband) you obviously need more gear. Our TBSS is like this; despite having 4.10s a built 4L70E with a loose converter on 28" tall drag radials and 650hp it still chugs through the traps (11.9 @ 116mph) well below peak power because it weighs 5300lbs.
But, if you want me to ballpark it? No less than 4.11s and no more than 4.56s.
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