Didn't know where to post this but here it goes anyone ever strip powder coating chemically? I have a complete frame to do and dont have the dunk tank option so it would have to be brush on! Been looking at the Benco b-15 B-17 products which some say work well but are very nasty for you! and then i looked into the eco type from Miles 8659 which they say works well and is pretty safe. the only other way was to burn it off but no one around Baltimore seemed to have a oven that big and a torch would take way to long i'm trying to keep it a quick as possible! Any input would be appreciated!
Powder coat removal?
- Thread starter 6togo
- Start date
- Status
6togo,
Try Permatex 80645 low voc Gasket Remover. You should do a Google search to learn more about it.
Doug
Try Permatex 80645 low voc Gasket Remover. You should do a Google search to learn more about it.
Doug
Well i had done some basic control arm bracing to it then had it coated and once the body was on i planned on doing a cage to help keep it stiff now i changed my mind on the cage and i dont think the frame is strong or stiff enough to handle the TT LSX 427 that's going in it. I plan to box it maybe notch it some add allot more bracing and reweld all the seam welds so there will not be much left untouched! I am hoping to still find another frame so i dont have to go this route or find someone to swap with!
I tred a couple strippers and they didn't touch the powdwercoating but I have used HD Easy Off oven cleaner to get powdercoating off aluminum so I can polish it but I don't know if it works the same on steel parts that have been powdercoated.
You will definitely need the rear notched to get as big a tire as possible back there.
Couldn't you just do mock ups for your added bracing and just grind the area you will be actually welding or if you have room in your yard you could use a cheap pressurized sandbaster http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pre ... 69724.html I used to have one of these and it worked pretty well at the time I just didn't have enough compressor to keep up but you do practically need to wear body armor since the sand bounces off almost as fast as it shoots out the gun.
You will definitely need the rear notched to get as big a tire as possible back there.
Couldn't you just do mock ups for your added bracing and just grind the area you will be actually welding or if you have room in your yard you could use a cheap pressurized sandbaster http://www.harborfreight.com/110-lb-pre ... 69724.html I used to have one of these and it worked pretty well at the time I just didn't have enough compressor to keep up but you do practically need to wear body armor since the sand bounces off almost as fast as it shoots out the gun.
Like i said i will be rewelding the entire frame the factory welds are far from perfect and sand blasting powder dont work well either even my coat shop said so they do a burn off process then sandblast the remains but they dont have a over anywhere near that big. The biggest oven i found at another shop is 10ft! I am wanting atleast a 295 DR maybe a 315 that should help some but more than likely still feel like its on ice!
- Status
Similar threads
