Power antenna bracket

Trader history for DB87442 (0)

DB87442

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Nov 27, 2021
26
13
Cartersville, GA
I’m looking for the bracket and bolt with the star washer that mounts the power antenna to the fender along the door. Goes on an 87 Cutlass.
 

DB87442

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Nov 27, 2021
26
13
Cartersville, GA
GM p/n 22038589

GM p/n 22038589

Thanks!
 

DB87442

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Nov 27, 2021
26
13
Cartersville, GA
So I got this bracket but just found out that originally it was a two piece bracket as pictured below. Does anyone happen to have the stepped bracket or know what the dimensions for it are so I can have one made?
 

Attachments

  • 3086642C-AC65-4E73-932E-F6BB6E11527D.jpeg
    3086642C-AC65-4E73-932E-F6BB6E11527D.jpeg
    172 KB · Views: 8

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
5,901
113
Um, no. This is NOT a Buick.

You got that 8589 bracket I mentioned earlier, right? The J hook looking bracket? You need that plus the J-nut to slip over the hole and run the bolt through the inner fender and the top nut on the outer fender holds the rest of it.

Look at this video of an 85 442 antenna replacement. Espeicially starting around 2:15 thereabouts. You'll see how it bolts up to the inner fender.

 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

DB87442

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Nov 27, 2021
26
13
Cartersville, GA
Looks like it should work the same on the Olds though as everything looks the same along the lower fender between the two. Just needs that second bracket to bring the height/angle of the bolt to the correct position. Even when the new antenna is in place and held on by the top nut it looks like that second bracket piece would allow it to line up perfectly. I’m sure I’m missing something as to why it would not work though. Is the only option removing the fender completely to gain access to that screw??
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
5,901
113
You still want that extra piece that you don't need for some strange reason. Ok, whatever. Go do that if you want. My Olds G47 cars don't need them. If you say your original one is a two-piece, then someone swapped it out. It is not factory. You have all the pieces you need for the factory type install. The Buick actually have that bracket going to the back of the fender and a bolt to access it inside the rear fender with the door open. The orientation of the entire bracket is in effect, upside down as compared to Olds, and is turned 90 degrees counter clockwise to the orientation that the Olds motor has inside the fender.

Note this pic of a GN power antenna bracket. Your car should not be like this one. Hence you do NOT need that extension piece on the bracket.
GN power antenna J bracket with extension.jpg

Just say no. You don't want or need that GN bracket.
Do_Not_Want_Dog_(1).jpg


Do you have your old one out? Once you do, everything will become apparent. You and the antenna will become one.

The job is not for the faint of heart. You will need a spanner wrench or specialty wrench made for the top antenna nut to loosen it.

That (I believe) 10mm head bolt on the inner fender holds the bottom section onto the inner fender. Make sure to unplug the antenna cable and wiring next to the antenna and HVAC fan.

Although it's been about 100 years since I had to do one of these, I had one stuck in the "up" position. After taking the fender loose from the bottom, and several inner fenderwell bolts, and the ones that are in the door jamb front, I also believe I took the inner fender bolts out as well to move the inner fender out far enough to get to the lower antenna bolt. Then I was able to separate the bottom section of the outer fender. I don't recall exactly how I did it, but I got an old, clean blanket and rolled it up to set the hood corner down after taking off the lower section of the hinge to the fender. Once I got that lower bolt out, I tied a string around the old antenna mast and when I took the nut loose, I lowered the antenna down through the bottom. Had to jack around with it to push the antenna back in so I could get it out of the bottom, but it worked.

Paint preservation is a PITA doing this. Use a bunch of masking tape and blankets if at all possible.

Look over this antenna carefully below. Your 87 should look JUST LIKE THIS ONE. Make the new one look like this one and it will go right back together. Check out the arrow pointing to the bracket. That little J nut on the end is where your inner fender mounting bolt goes. Again, THIS IS NOT A BUICK. This is an Olds G47 which uses just that J bracket and that bolt. What you're looking at is the antenna laying on the ground. Now picture that in the car. You'd be looking at it as if you could take the passenger door off and look straight at it. The antenna mast will be straight up and down. The motor will be a bit cocked tilting inward at the top. TBH, i don't even think Olds put a hole in the back of the fender for that GN style of bracket.

Olds G47 Antenna Lower Mounting Bracket.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
5,901
113
Oh, and if you rebuild your unit for a new cable, as I'm guessing a snapped cable is your problem, I highly suggest you get a new cable (vinyl coated stainless) from 88hurstolds here on the site. Not sure if he has any more or not, but if you get one from him, that's the last time you'll need to do that cable. The original is nylon and will eventually harden, crack, then break. Thus, it never actuates the torque switch to shut it off automatically so the motor just runs and runs. It's just how it is. GM never figured these antennae should last 35+ years.

Even if you buy NOS parts or complete antenna for fixing yours, it still has the nylon cable and well, eventually it'll happen again, and likely sooner. Especially since the "new" nylon is old as dirt to start with.

In the very unlikely event you need to replace the power antenna relay, the original GM p/n is 10030273 superseded to 22535475. Standard has it aftermarket via p/n RY603 at Rockauto.com for 13 bucks and change even before the discount. And from Standard's picture, it has the 5475 GM number stamped on it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users

88hurstolds

Royal Smart Person
Jun 24, 2008
1,675
83
Oh, and if you rebuild your unit for a new cable, as I'm guessing a snapped cable is your problem, I highly suggest you get a new cable (vinyl coated stainless) from 88hurstolds here on the site. Not sure if he has any more or not, but if you get one from him, that's the last time you'll need to do that cable. The original is nylon and will eventually harden, crack, then break. Thus, it never actuates the torque switch to shut it off automatically so the motor just runs and runs. It's just how it is. GM never figured these antennae should last 35+ years.

Even if you buy NOS parts or complete antenna for fixing yours, it still has the nylon cable and well, eventually it'll happen again, and likely sooner. Especially since the "new" nylon is old as dirt to start with.

In the very unlikely event you need to replace the power antenna relay, the original GM p/n is 10030273 superseded to 22535475. Standard has it aftermarket via p/n RY603 at Rockauto.com for 13 bucks and change even before the discount. And from Standard's picture, it has the 5475 GM number stamped on it.
I use a stainless steel push pull cable, its not vinyl coated, just better than the braided ones out there because if you push on a braided cable they expand and bind over time.
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
5,901
113
I use a stainless steel push pull cable, its not vinyl coated, just better than the braided ones out there because if you push on a braided cable they expand and bind over time.
Oops. My bad. I should know better. I even have one of those you made. And yes, it's a push/pull cable without any coating. The other day I just found one of those braided cable deals in my stash and that's what I was thinking about when I posted.
 

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck ConsolesDixie Restoration DepotMike's MontesP-S-TSouthside Machine PerformanceUMI Performance

ContactAdmin@GBodyForum.comfor info on becoming a sponsor