PONTIAC Project '67.

g0thiac

Master Mechanic
Sep 6, 2020
400
43
Some of you may recall my previous thread on a 1967 Parisienne, and whether or not I should sell Bonnie for it.

Well, a guy got promoted at work from part to full time, so I decided to keep the 1984 Pontiac and get the 1967 Pontiac.

Pros:

-Car has ownership.
-Engine is not seized (I checked today)
-Previous owner included a whole extra frame and rear diff for free, from a donor Parisienne.
-Got it cheaper than I was first thinking.
-Car DOES have the wheel wells, and they are in decent shape.
-Roof is solid despite the vinyl falling apart.
-Interior is amazing, and is all original.

Con:
-Rockers need work.
-Quarters need work.
-New floors will be needed.
-Frame in one area is shitty, right under the hole in the drivers side floor.
-One tire doesn't hold air. (Replaced it with a spare today)
-Battery cables are tired, so I have to get new ones, as it won't allow me to crank for more than 2 seconds.
-Have to get the brakes done.
-Have to get the new fuel lines.
 

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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Supporting Member
Dec 1, 2014
3,331
113
Upstate NY
Unless you have the resources to complete a full restoration the best thing to do with that car is get it running and driving, then fix it as needed.

Great car - DRIVE IT!!!!
 
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g0thiac

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Sep 6, 2020
400
43
Unless you have the resources to complete a full restoration the best thing to do with that car is get it running and driving, then fix it as needed.

Great car - DRIVE IT!!!!
Agreed, I will be doing that.

First I will need to get the electrical stuff sorted out, which is easy for me.

Then I will need to get the brakes fixed. Once thats done, I can start driving her. Mostly to my guy to get the floors and frame fixed.
 
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08Malibu

G-Body Guru
Feb 9, 2014
854
93
North Jersey
Hopefully you’ll be fixing the brakes yourself. If not, then this car is way over your head. I still think it may be a bit over your head, rust repair is big money when you have to pay for it. Not trying to rain on your parade, I just know this to be true. Either way good luck with your new purchase, definitely a cool ride.
 
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g0thiac

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Sep 6, 2020
400
43
So I installed the new cable today, and was able to keep cranking the engine more.

But the starter seems too weak, it barely wanted to work. And after smacking it about a hundred times, now it doesn't do anything. So yeah... I will be replacing it.

Not looking forward to trying to remove those rusty bolts however. Is PB blaster the best way besides torching the bastards? Lol.
 

5spdCab

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Dec 29, 2019
1,095
113
Tukwila, Wa.
So I installed the new cable today, and was able to keep cranking the engine more.

But the starter seems too weak, it barely wanted to work. And after smacking it about a hundred times, now it doesn't do anything. So yeah... I will be replacing it.

Not looking forward to trying to remove those rusty bolts however. Is PB blaster the best way besides torching the bastards? Lol.
I recently used PB Blaster on bolts that had not been removed in 25 years. I sprayed them all the night before and let them soak. Every one came out without breaking, stripping, and without cracking my knuckles.
 
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pontiac guy

G-Body Guru
Oct 28, 2016
551
93
Royse City, TX
Usually the starter bolts stick in the starter nose cone. Its aluminum and the bolts are steel. Galvanic corrosion and viola! Stuck tight. The bolts just pass thru the width of the nose cone so you have to get the penetrant above the starter engine interface so it runs down. Heat helps sometimes. Get the bolt head hot let it sit till it's not red and repeat. You need to get the length of the bolt hot. Cycle it a lot since the problem is along the grip and not the threads. Unscrew it while it's hot. The bolt closest to the block is usually the hardest to free up. You can just blow the heads off and then use a pry bar. The bolts should unscrew with a vise grip from the block when the starter is off. I'd save that as a last resort though.
 
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Oct 14, 2008
7,453
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Neat car, surprised the roof isn't screwed with rust hoarder top peeling. What motor is in it?
 
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g0thiac

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Sep 6, 2020
400
43
I recently used PB Blaster on bolts that had not been removed in 25 years. I sprayed them all the night before and let them soak. Every one came out without breaking, stripping, and without cracking my knuckles.
Ok, I'll grab a can. I was able to get one bolt out but the other one just won't budge, even after spraying 3/4 of a can of WD on it.

I plan to get an impact wrench this week, to help make things easier as well.
 
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g0thiac

Master Mechanic
Thread starter
Sep 6, 2020
400
43
Usually the starter bolts stick in the starter nose cone. Its aluminum and the bolts are steel. Galvanic corrosion and viola! Stuck tight. The bolts just pass thru the width of the nose cone so you have to get the penetrant above the starter engine interface so it runs down. Heat helps sometimes. Get the bolt head hot let it sit till it's not red and repeat. You need to get the length of the bolt hot. Cycle it a lot since the problem is along the grip and not the threads. Unscrew it while it's hot. The bolt closest to the block is usually the hardest to free up. You can just blow the heads off and then use a pry bar. The bolts should unscrew with a vise grip from the block when the starter is off. I'd save that as a last resort though.
Sounds good, the oil pan is right beside it which is why I am questioning if bringing the blowtorch is smart lmao.

I will be getting an impact driver also which could help.
 
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