BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Updated 4/20/19)

Rktpwrd

Rktpwrd

Royal Smart Person
Feb 2, 2015
1,969
6,359
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Question out of nowhere, Donovan. What do you do to remove 1980 GM lacquer that is all checked and crappy? I have heard that sanding this stuff is like sanding rubber cement. I need to do the whole roof, which is a challenge for aircraft stripper, washing it off, it goes everywhere.
It’s one of those things, ask 10 different people and you’ll get 10 different answers.

For me personally, I’m really old school in my approach to it. I use 80 grit discs on the DA, and strip it all off manually, clear down to the bare metal. Although extremely time consuming and monotonous, it ensures you get every last little bit of it, and no noxious chemicals and mess from chemical strippers to contend with.

Some guys don’t have the patience for it, they’ll use something like a 40 grit disc on a high speed sander. I’m not really a fan of this method, if you’re not careful and catch a sensitive area you could do damage with the heat created. Also, I find the faster you try and remove it, the more it heats up and just ends up smearing. Then you spend additional time chasing the smears around. The 80 grit on the DA doesn’t have this problem.

That’s just how I do it, everyone seems to have their own preference.
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Comic Book Super Hero
Oct 14, 2008
4,070
1,904
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
As with anything, it all depends on your individual situation. I’ve been a fan of MSD wires for about forever, I always buy the custom fit sets and build my own. Never once had a problem. But to each their own, use what works best for you.

I’ve had Accel wires in the past, worst junk I’ve ever spent money on. I vowed I’d never give that company another red cent again. But again, that was just my personal experience.
They were garbage, I agree, had a few crappy sets years back. Same thing for me, I will never buy another MSD set, crap for $80. Of course now they are all the same company, it is a crap shoot. I will probably go with US made Summit wires again, they even have a copy of the MSD Superconductor wires but US made. I bought their 7mm set for the 260, Packard Bell on the wires and 270 ohm per foot, nice for the price
 
Clutch

Clutch

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 7, 2017
3,487
4,917
113
Brick NJ
It’s one of those things, ask 10 different people and you’ll get 10 different answers.

For me personally, I’m really old school in my approach to it. I use 80 grit discs on the DA, and strip it all off manually, clear down to the bare metal. Although extremely time consuming and monotonous, it ensures you get every last little bit of it, and no noxious chemicals and mess from chemical strippers to contend with.

Some guys don’t have the patience for it, they’ll use something like a 40 grit disc on a high speed sander. I’m not really a fan of this method, if you’re not careful and catch a sensitive area you could do damage with the heat created. Also, I find the faster you try and remove it, the more it heats up and just ends up smearing. Then you spend additional time chasing the smears around. The 80 grit on the DA doesn’t have this problem.

That’s just how I do it, everyone seems to have their own preference.
I know a guy lol
 
Rktpwrd

Rktpwrd

Royal Smart Person
Feb 2, 2015
1,969
6,359
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Rktpwrd

Rktpwrd

Royal Smart Person
Feb 2, 2015
1,969
6,359
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Worked on getting the business end of the AstroRoof restored today, the cable drive and track assembly.

It wasn’t as bad as I expected, but it was still pretty dirty. Before I began:

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Using some household cleaner, wax and grease remover, tooth brushes and red ScotchBrite, I cleaned out the years of accumulated dirt and old grease.
What a mess it made, but boy what a difference too:

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After I had it cleaned up, I went after scuffing up all the old paint and removing the really flaky stuff that seemed to be especially bad on the aluminum cable tubes:

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Once I had everything scuffed and cleaned again, a couple coats of VHT satin black got it all looking presentable once more:

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Other than the insert/pan piece, this is the last of the AstroRoof puzzle. The rest of it has already been refinished and restored.

Once I get the insert block sanded and re-primed, I can paint inside the weatherstrip gutter, glue the new weatherstrip seal in place, and assemble the whole thing. I’ll also be lubricating the tracks and cables with some aerosol white lithium grease I have just before reinstalling the track assembly back into the cartridge.

Then permanently back into the car it goes, so stay tuned for that little milestone!

That’s all for now gents, thanks once again for following along.

D.
 
Clutch

Clutch

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 7, 2017
3,487
4,917
113
Brick NJ
I have to give you credit for the way you Hammer through all the tedious little odds and ends I wish I could get my projects that far.
 
spidereyes455

spidereyes455

Master Mechanic
Mar 6, 2013
280
231
43
Northeastern PA
Great work! That roof is going to open and close faster and smoother than it has in nearly 40 years. It's amazing how many people complain about power windows ect are so slow on these older cars but no one thinks to take stuff apart to clean and apply fresh grease.
 
Rktpwrd

Rktpwrd

Royal Smart Person
Feb 2, 2015
1,969
6,359
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Been a busy one this past week, and I’ve gotten a fair bit accomplished.

Pretty big update and lotsa pics to follow later today.

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Stay tuned...
 

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