BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Updated 5/10/20 The final push for paint!)

M

Malihoochie-

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 14, 2020
35
18
Detroit area
Rktpwrd, Those valve covers were originally made by Dart machinery for the 14° small block chevy "Olds" heads (casting number 1-031 or later 1-026B) made by Dart that were generally for Nascar use and either ported by CFE or some other porting guru of the time period. Very cool that you were able to get and use them. They would date back to the very late 1980's or early 1990's.
 
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Rktpwrd

Rktpwrd

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 2, 2015
2,689
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Alright gents, a little Sunday morning reading for most of you.

I’m still in the holding pattern waiting for the big weekend, but it’s now less than a week away and the reality is finally sinking in.
Not a whole lot has happened in the past week, but I did manage to track down and install the Moroso baffled valve cover grommets:

6609D299-BB72-4025-8BBA-BA566C631E71.jpeg


EC142DDF-DEE0-4E60-8778-919DAC8ABF58.jpeg


I’m pleased to report that these covers are tall enough that the deep grommets clear the valvetrain no problem. I wasn’t 100% sure they would as I had to drill the holes in non-stock locations so that I wasn’t drilling into the lettering, but it all worked out just fine.

Installed:

C99F589F-323A-408F-8053-38CA4379878F.jpeg


0011CA8D-5AEC-4AC4-9A57-4A076EEECBB9.jpeg


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This engine is still pretty fresh and strong and I’ve never seen it push oil or blowby anywhere, so I’m pretty confident these grommets will do the trick.

The big news for me this week however came on Friday. I got some time to stop in at my paint supplier and have a good discussion with the guys there about what I planned to do and choose my products. A huge shoutout to Terry, Rick and Jared at Advanced Coatings in Calgary for helping this ole dude out.

I started by showing them pictures of the car in it’s current state so that we were all on the same page and then outlined what has to be done. I listed the products and methods I had planned to use in the booth, and they patiently listened and made some suggestions that might be more appropriate for what I need to do.

We started with the clearcoat, I had planned on using the EnviroBase EC550 EN-V clear, but Terry suggested if I didn’t know the cleanliness of the booth, the EC530 might be a better choice because it doesn’t stay “open” as long. Less chance of dust settling in the clear that way. Just as we were having this discussion, the owner’s son Jared interjected and said that they had an open but unused gallon of the 530 and it’s matching reducer that he would sell to me at a substantially reduced cost.

Perfect!! Easy decision made there.

Next we talked about the color coats. I had already done the legwork and crunched some numbers so that I knew roughly how many square feet would need coverage and multiplied that by the number of coats that would likely be needed. After some discussion and debate, we ultimately decided that 3 sprayable quarts of the Cameo white and 2 sprayable quarts of the Sterling grey combined with the pints of each I already had at home would get it done.

The big unknown area for me was the sealer selection next. I knew that I would need to stick with an Omni sealer to keep all the products compatible right up to the clear, but beyond that I was completely unsure because I’ve never used a sealer before. I mentioned that I thought an epoxy based sealer might be the way to go, but Terry quickly shot that down saying that he thought it would be a waste of money for my application. “It’s way overkill and unneeded” were his words.

Instead, we decided that we’d stick with the Omni MP 802 which, some of you might recognize, is also the high build primer I’ve been using. It’s turns into a wet on wet sealer in a 3:1:1:1 combination with the addition of some Omni clear.

That about took care of the product selection and quantities, then it was time to add the sundries. Painter’s suit, disposable gloves, wax and grease remover, more tape, tech sheets for everything, etc etc. Now for the nerve racking part:
Totalling up the bill.

Before I go any further, I should mention that I had already previously priced out the clear and it’s components, and to make one gallon of sprayable clear, it was going to be $700 my cost!

So I nervously stood by as Rick tallied up all the stuff and quietly wondered to myself if my $2000 budget was going to be adequate to cover it all. Imagine my delight as the total bill, tax in, came out to just a hair over $1200. Yes, I know that’s still a sh*t-ton of dough, but I was getting what by rights, was over $2000 worth of products and materials for that price!
To say I was grateful to Jared for speaking up about the stuff that wasn’t in his inventory and otherwise saleable is a huge understatement.
In exactly the right place and the right time I guess!

So there ya have it. All the products and materials have been officially selected and bought, and they’re quite substantial when all complied. 3 boxes worth in fact!

4709E350-BC63-4C7B-9871-5507CD2420B8.jpeg


Here they are all laid out on the counter:

E01B3371-4C9D-485D-8358-8B9E9DEF2071.jpeg


From left to right in groupings, the basecoat colors, 3 quarts Cameo White and 2 quarts Sterling Grey in gallon cans along with some of its reducer:

E7A18AFB-6E6E-42AE-8DD4-FE6CB6AB89FC.jpeg


The clear and it’s components, hardener and reducer, enough to make the entire gallon sprayable:

59759780-8619-4AC2-95CB-A4CC311A113B.jpeg


The sealer and it’s components, hardener, reducer and Omni clear required as it’s carrier:

5FBD40B6-77FD-4C92-8E79-B6DA9146605C.jpeg


And then the miscellaneous stuff.
Tech sheets for all the products:

3B04D7B2-222E-4EDB-B572-0ED55815ED8B.jpeg


Gloves and painter’s suit:

FC8A284E-D98E-46FF-8286-3DB1990F62A2.jpeg


Tape, cartridges and pre-filters for my mask (last ones they had in stock!), tack rag, and wax and grease remover:

1C96EB64-883A-4D9E-940D-3ABD9BEAB4B1.jpeg


This is just the stuff I bought on Friday, and doesn’t take into account the materials I already have and will need to take along as well.

Overall it was a huge relief that I not only came in under budget, but by a substantial amount too! I now have an extra $800 left over that I wasn’t planning on having.

THAT, my friends is a great feeling for a change.

As these last few days tick down, I’ll be doing some preliminary masking on the car up until Friday, then Friday morning I will be bringing our trailer home from work and paying for half the booth up front. If the weather is nice, I’ll load up the car on the trailer Friday night and load the truck with all the products and stuff I’ll need so that I can head straight out bright and early Saturday morning.

It’s almost time friends!

D.
 
Streetbu

Streetbu

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
May 22, 2011
1,735
113
Central NY
Question for you. Will you be sanding the sealer after it is sprayed? I've have very little experience using sealer, or body work for that matter, but it's based off the high build primer. I wouldn't think it would be as smooth as the vehicles current state.
 
old80cs

old80cs

Master Mechanic
Jun 27, 2013
256
93
Massachusetts
Glad you got all you needed and came in under budget, good for you, Donovan! I bet it’ gonna be a long week. 🙂
 
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08Malibu

08Malibu

Master Mechanic
Feb 9, 2014
345
63
North Jersey
Question for you. Will you be sanding the sealer after it is sprayed? I've have very little experience using sealer, or body work for that matter, but it's based off the high build primer. I wouldn't think it would be as smooth as the vehicles current state.
Sometimes the sealers based off of high build primers don’t flow as well as dedicated sealers. I imagine that’s where the clear intermix comes in.
Whenever I use sealer, I like to use a little worn out 1000 grit sandpaper that’s been soaking to nib sand the dirt spots out. The worn paper has less of a tendency to dig in to the sealer than the fresh paper.
 
olds307 and 403

olds307 and 403

Geezer
Oct 14, 2008
5,867
113
Melville,Saskatchewan
Unique valve covers and glad you found baffled grommets. I had the same issue with my aluminum Edelbrock valve covers. For some reason the Edelbrock version on the M/T covers don't have grommets. The solution was factory Oldsmobile grommets which are both baffled and look factory, they would have made those faux covers look even more factory. Interesting about primer sitting and causing potential adhesion issues. While waiting for my power bleeder to arrive for my 70S, it sat in my moist garage for a couple of weeks. I was rewarded with the paint peeling on the bottom of the passenger door showing rust. I plan on doing a similar job to the 70, although no doubt won't turn out as good. It hit me, I need not only front quarters and rear quarter skins but both doors as well. The passenger door has a dent which makes fixing it even less desirable. Either way we are all living our perfect shiny paint dreams through you. I am spending any car money on a new Lund Fury 1600 boat and just ordered the hitch and wiring from Amazon to equip my Challenger GT to tow it. One of these years, I swear it will be the 70 Cutlass S turn.
 
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565bbchevy

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
7,442
113
Michigan
If you want to add a fill cap to your valve covers these are the ones I use on my fabricated valve covers and they are made by PRW.
It's a billet aluminum modular design so all you have to do is drill a hole and mount it.
I have one on my Monte and Regal, they come in 4 finishes or prep and paint them.
1590323698618.png
 
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