BUILD THREAD Project Olds Cool (Recognition!!)

Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Good to hear about checking out the glue. I looked at the 3M stuff, confusing, multiple numbers of spray adhesives. I bought the Permatex stuff from Canadian Tire, even said for head liners. Their stuff is usually good, what the hell right? Wrong! I pulled out the headliner removed the sagging fabric and cleaned it all with brake cleaner. Followed the instructions for application and drying. Put it back in place, 2 days later, sagging as bad as ever. I ripped all the fabric off and spray painted the board which looks like sh*t to this day. I need therapy for my experience. Choose wisely, make sure it is high temp and good luck.

The 3M stuff I posted a picture of in the update is supposed to be the strongest you can buy non-commercially. I used it to glue the headliner fabric I bought to the AstroRoof slider board, and I guarantee you it’s stuck EXTREMELY well and isn’t going anywhere. In fact the fabric wants to tear long before the adhesive lets go. I tried.
The multiple listings of 3M glues are for varying strengths and applications.

As for your experience with the Permatex glue, I’ve never been impressed with anything they make. Especially their gasket makers and adhesives. As the old adage goes, you get what you pay for. The 3M stuff is pricey as hell, but I have the utmost confidence in it. I personally wouldn’t use or trust Permatex ANYTHING on anything I cared about.
 
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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
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My best experience, outside of commercial Landau top cement, has been DAP weldwood contact cement on critical surfaces like head liner edges. Best spray has been 3M super 90, but I wouldn't trust it on ABS l- too slippery.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
My best experience, outside of commercial Landau top cement, has been DAP weldwood contact cement on critical surfaces like head liner edges. Best spray has been 3M super 90, but I wouldn't trust it on ABS l- too slippery.

I have contacted 3M via email on the compatibility of the Super Trim Adhesive on ABS plastic. I’ll let you know what they say.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
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Feb 2, 2015
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Nothing says “old school” quite like some vintage late 70’s - early 80’s technology!

There has been some mild interest from a couple of you in the past about these fender mounted signal light indicators, so I thought I’d take a minute and show y’all what’s going on inside one of these lil goobers.

It’s extremely simple really, they use fibre optic cables to transfer light from one source to another. Three partitions in the indicator, three fibre optic cables. One for the park lights, one for the low beam headlights, and one for the high beams. The light ends simply point at the source of the light, and the other ends point at the indicator lens.

Inside the pot metal housing that mounts on top of the fender, there’s this rubber block that sits firmly inside the housing and provides a spot for each of the three cables:

92C4AF39-A316-4B37-89CF-EDA89B3BF3D2.jpeg


If you look closely, you can see where the crimped metal ends of each cable sit recessed down inside the rubber block:

A05DE7D1-CDE5-4A25-916D-8A67D17A81B9.jpeg


On the front side of the block, there’s 3 larger oval holes that correspond with the 3 protrusions in the lens:

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Pretty simple, 3 cables go in one end, lens goes in the other:

08BC04FD-BE89-42C3-A1BD-EC21D7EC3FA5.jpeg


Once assembled, the rubber block fits up securely inside the housing, and the housing mounts to the fender:

E53ABC5B-4518-4778-9F46-1875D157E2C8.jpeg


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It should be obvious by now, but just in case it isn’t, the outermost amber indicator is the park lights, the clear middle one is low beam headlights, and the blue innermost one is the high beam indicator.

These aren’t especially fun to attach or remove, the horns on the driver’s fender and the battery on the passenger’s side need to be removed to gain access. Being double jointed 16 ways and the ability to see through metal is also almost a prerequisite here. But anyways, here they are mounted in a couple of shameless glamour shots:

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They're pretty typical of 80’s GM styling, a bit bulky and awkward, but also kinda cheesy cool at the same time. I’ve done all I can to streamline them and make them look a little less out of place by eliminating the bulky rubber gaskets underneath and building up the outer edges to match the fender profile, so they are what they are now.

I’m just happy that it’s another piece of the car that’s back on now!

I’ve already started on the next section of the car, finishing off the trunk lid. Got the first stage of it done last night, DA’ing the whole surface with 1000 grit:

610369AF-FD3C-4585-A499-49A48CE2823B.jpeg


Hate that part, so nerve racking! But also so rewarding at the same time. Actual wet sanding is next.

It finally stopped raining here yesterday for a change to open the big door for a bit, the car sure is glossy and reflective with some natural light!!

19CB6EB9-C015-4C3D-BDB3-F5AA0D0AED6C.jpeg


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That’s it for now gents, I’ll post up again when I’ve made more progress.

D.
 
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Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
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May 22, 2011
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My dad's '68 'Vette had them too. Pretty cool.
 
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69hurstolds

Geezer
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Jan 2, 2006
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You did use gaskets to seal out the water from those lamp monitor holes, right? P/Ns 563386 and 563387? Or did I miss that? Or did you do the butyl trick? I can't recall when you modified the housings to fit better whether you rendered the gaskets moot or not. It looks cleaner without gaskets, obviously.
 
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Oct 14, 2008
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The 3M stuff I posted a picture of in the update is supposed to be the strongest you can buy non-commercially. I used it to glue the headliner fabric I bought to the AstroRoof slider board, and I guarantee you it’s stuck EXTREMELY well and isn’t going anywhere. In fact the fabric wants to tear long before the adhesive lets go. I tried.
The multiple listings of 3M glues are for varying strengths and applications.

As for your experience with the Permatex glue, I’ve never been impressed with anything they make. Especially their gasket makers and adhesives. As the old adage goes, you get what you pay for. The 3M stuff is pricey as hell, but I have the utmost confidence in it. I personally wouldn’t use or trust Permatex ANYTHING on anything I cared about.
Interesting let me guess only name brand food in your house as well😁. Their new Optimum Grey RTV is by far the best all around RTV they make, very heavy body and holds up to 700 degrees. It has sealed up a few exhaust manifolds including one with a sheared off bolt. Yeah 3M is like Bayer, huge and no doubt the best Scientists and engineers to make their product.
 
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Rktpwrd

Builder of Cool Shjt
Supporting Member
Feb 2, 2015
4,166
23,915
113
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Do the fibre optics work?
They are cool as hell.

They most definitely do. Not a lot to go wrong with them, no moving parts. Pretty archaic by today’s standards, but they do still work.

You did use gaskets to seal out the water from those lamp monitor holes, right? P/Ns 563386 and 563387? Or did I miss that? Or did you do the butyl trick? I can't recall when you modified the housings to fit better whether you rendered the gaskets moot or not. It looks cleaner without gaskets, obviously.

Ixnay on the asketsgay. I still have and tried the original gaskets, but they’ve shrunk considerably over time and don’t fit terribly well anymore. I played around with making my own, but didn’t like the look or the additional height they add to them. Started taking a really good look at them and realized I didn’t really see a point to the gaskets anyways. Any water that makes it inside will drain out through the cable hole. I’m guessing they were really only there to protect? the paint underneath.

I put a question mark behind protect because that’s debatable. If anything, the gaskets will trap dirt and moisture between the gaskets and fenders making it worse, not better.
 
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