Q-jet electric choke question

[CutlassKage]

my 78 cutlass runs fine when warm. Hesitation and stall issues when cold. Went through most checks like vacuum leak, fuel filter, etc. The carb has an electric choke and the choke plate us about half and inch open before startup. I thought it is closed before start. Can I adjust it?

 

[pontiacgp]

what about the rest of the cold weather equipment like the flap in the snorkel of the air cleaner and do you have the vacuum set up correctly on the thermal vacuum switches

 

[CutlassKage]

This is my first old GM since my 72 skylark in 1981. Probably need help with the air cleaner system. I had a bunch of fox bodies with different systems

 

[pontiacgp]

here a diagram for a 78 Cutlass with 231. I don't know what engine you have

 

[CutlassKage]

here a diagram for a 78 Cutlass with 231. I don't know what engine you have

Thanks. That's it. Also it's a 2 jet. Not sure why I typed Q jet.

 

[pontiacgp]

you can have the choke properly set up but quadrajets and dueljets do not like cold air when first started

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Can you tell if the choke is functioning? QJs and especially CCC QJs get a bad rap. I have NONE of the factory air cleaner crap on mine anymore even though it still runs off the ECM sitting on top of a big block now. I pump once when cold, it starts and runs smooth at fast idle. Once warm, tap the pedal, the fast idle tab releases, and it idles at 750.

BTW, I hope to actually show that one of these days if I ever get my suspension/brake/rearend/soundsystem swaps done?

 

[fastSS]

why wait? make a video of the choke closing, then show how much the vacuum break should open the choke plate at start up and how as the engine warms up the choke opens fully and the high idle cam can then drop down.

 

[Canon_Mutant]

Um, I cannot start it at the moment period. Doing front-rear battery relocation, plus all new heavy gauge wiring, and the distributor is still out just because I want to spin the pump good before I start because this has all taken WAY too damn long. I could show the choke closing when I pump the car once, I guess, but not sure that proves anything (??)

 

[MrSony]

When the car is first started, the choke pulloff (little canister on the front) will pull the choke flap open a little to allow fresh air into the engine. Normal starting procedure during cold months is after the engine is overnight cold, firmly and quickly press the pedal to the floor. This should set the choke and close the flap, the choke components, the silver weight and the green... thing behind the choke housing should be in the upright position. When the engine starts, the resulting vacuum causes the choke pulloff to pull the choke open a little, as I said. That first pump also shoots a stream of fuel into the carb to get things going. The car should idle at about 1200-1300rpm on the large step of the fast idle cam, 1000ish on the second step, then 8-900 once the choke mechanism is off, coil is heated up, and the flap is 100% open. You can adjust the tension of the choke flap and how long it takes to fully open by turning the black cover. If your carb has rivets on it instead of screws, you're kind of screwed in that respect. If it stumbles when cold, it could be the fast idle isn't working and it's idling like it's warm outside or the engine is at temp when it's not. You should also be able to whack the throttle to get it to come off the fast idle whenever you want, cold or hot.