Choke flap should have a nice springy snap shut when you push it open on a cold motor. You can see how the pull off works by pushing in on the little arm, use that to check the gap on the choke flap. Measure from the back of the choke opening to the edge of the flap. Use a drill bit as stated above for accurate measurement. When the engine is at temp, if the flap seems limp but is open (and the fast idle cam [silver weight, called an elephant ear often, and the green thing are horizontal, indicating the choke is off), the coil could be bad or not getting 12v to the wire. Switched ignition, only should get 12v one car is on or on the start position, nothing else. Some tee into the alternator field wire (commonly the brown one off the back of it), or the wiper motor wire which is yellow(?). GM teed into the oil pressure sender with a green wire(?). No oil pressure, no choke. Easy way to adjust fast idle is on a STONE COLD MOTOR (see a theme here?), back out the adjustment screw all the way until it starts to get loose, don't lose it! Crack the throttle a TEENY bit, hold the fast idle cams upright, and tighten the screw. Watch carefully and you'll see the throttle shaft start to move as if it's being opened, that's what the fast idle does. But automatically. Go from there. If it idles too high after about 30 seconds, (really you should get a tachometer or a nice timing light with one built in to check accurately), shut it off immediately. Wait an hour or so, and try again in small increments. You only have about a 20 minute window before the engine starts to warm up if it's above freezing.