Quarter Panel Body work…

57 Handyman

Greasemonkey
Feb 6, 2017
179
43
Hotboyrn84, I've been looking at your pictures which have generated a few thoughts. It appears you have the car raised and off of the frame. Depending on how you have the body secured and braced, I am concerned about how much torquing and twisting is happening with the body. If the body isn't secured and oriented flat and square while you fabricate, weld, and make inner structure and outer skin repairs you are locking-in this configuration. This outcome may not become evident until the body is lowered back onto the frame and hinder your body mounts. Another point is how far away from the rusted areas you are making your cuts. The standard I've used and was taught in body fender repair classes is 2-3 inches at a minimum. In some of your pictures, the cuts are right next and on the edge of the rust. I can understand your desire to retain as much original metal and, thereby, decrease the size of each repair and patch piece. Unfortunately, leaving these underlying rust-damaged metal and covering them over with body filler is not a good solution nor approach. Your goal in doing these repairs is to do it once!
 

Hotboyrn84

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
May 1, 2012
48
18
Hotboyrn84, I've been looking at your pictures which have generated a few thoughts. It appears you have the car raised and off of the frame. Depending on how you have the body secured and braced, I am concerned about how much torquing and twisting is happening with the body. If the body isn't secured and oriented flat and square while you fabricate, weld, and make inner structure and outer skin repairs you are locking-in this configuration. This outcome may not become evident until the body is lowered back onto the frame and hinder your body mounts. Another point is how far away from the rusted areas you are making your cuts. The standard I've used and was taught in body fender repair classes is 2-3 inches at a minimum. In some of your pictures, the cuts are right next and on the edge of the rust. I can understand your desire to retain as much original metal and, thereby, decrease the size of each repair and patch piece. Unfortunately, leaving these underlying rust-damaged metal and covering them over with body filler is not a good solution nor approach. Your goal in doing these repairs is to do it once!
Definitely appreciate it… its level… on Jack stands in the front and in the back a split 4x6 or whatever stand siting on cinder blocks where the tank would be and in the middle 4x6’s on cinder blocks…. For the inner quarters the frame was in the way and it’s tight enough even raised but I was gonna put the car back on the frame for the outer quarter since that’s what ppl see. I’m making up what makes the structure by guess though cause all that’s removed was completely rottted so I have no idea what it looked like.

Yea I’ve see ppl say the pick method and just sanding and scuffing down to bare metal. No one will see it and it’s not load baring really so I just like I said sanded scuffed sprayed with a rust encapsulator the sanded and rust encapsulated again the cleaned the metal and sprayed with a metal rust oleum. I think that should be good. As for the outter I’m not done cutting I started with what was gone and getting solid edges and now I’m gonna make sold lines around that to make my final cuts before starting to build a skin… or at least that’s my thought process
 

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