Radiator time

[Tuffregal83]

Well took the Regal out last night
And it was running on the warmer side than I like 210 so I think it time for a new radiator. The old one I got it when I did the first v8 swap in 97 and it's been repaired a few times fan clutch let loose one time and few other stupid things so I know a few rows blocked off but never had any problems till last night. Just seeing what you guys run with.
I'm running a 468 BBC TH400
Solid fan with full shroud

 

[565bbchevy]

I have a 565 BBC and cool my Monte with a big Griffen radiator with 2 x 1.25 tubes and an Intrepid dual fan set up.

 

[MG78]

1978 Malibu with 454. 4 row Champion radiator off eBay with 7 blade clutch fan and shroud. Works pretty well in Arizona heat. Rarely goes above 200 degrees.

 

[MG78]

1978 Malibu with 454. 4 row Champion radiator off eBay with 7 blade clutch fan and shroud. Works pretty well in Arizona heat. Rarely goes above 200 degrees.

Update- I’ve always thought the more rows the better. As 565bbchevy said, 2 rows with 1.25” tubes works for him. I read more and more that the two row setup is superior to 4. Depending on how you will use your car it may be a better solution. My car doesn’t see a lot of hard usage so my cooling setup is sufficient.

 

[Tuffregal83]

Thanks for the tips guys
One more question I like to run a 50/50 mix for coolant and water weter or purple ice. But should I just go strait water with water weter or purple ice just for summer use and when store it for winter go back with 50/50 mix

 

[64nailhead]

Thanks for the tips guys
One more question I like to run a 50/50 mix for coolant and water weter or purple ice. But should I just go strait water with water weter or purple ice just for summer use and when store it for winter go back with 50/50 mix

I would discourage you from running straight water for any period longer than a day or two. And only if it was a rules requirement somewhere. Water does cool better than most anything else, but the corrosion in every iron part that it creates isn't worth the minor benefit of it. Obviously you need coolant that won't freeze, but coolant that isn't corrosive is the 2nd most important trait of a good coolant. Of course, most all of us have been around for the 50/50 glycol based (usually green) colant that has been around for 40+ years, and it works. But better is to have a coolant that is non corrosive, won't freeze and has a long drain interval. Dexcool was GM's alternative, but it doesn't mix well with others and can be expensive in certain places. We use an extended life coolant (ELC) that is commonly used in the truck world that has a replacement interval of 5 years. It can be topped off with small amounts of just about anything, is readily available, and can be found on the cheapish side at most any truck parts retailer.

Caterpillar ELC can be found just about anywhere. There are ELC's in the truck world that are exotic and unnecessary. If you go looking for one and get hit with the silly pricing of some of this garbage, then walk away. Also, commonly parts people will confuse ELC and SCA based coolants - they look alike, but you want an ELC - read the container.