I write software test procedures for a living so I was most comfortable writing the "how to" as a technical paper ... if you'd like all of this in PDF form -- so you can print it or just ease-of-use -- then send me a PM
Due to character-count restrictions, below is Part 1
INTRODUCTION
STOCK REAR LIGHTING
Rear of ’86 Cutlass Supreme 2-Door has been designed with three types of lights:
- License Plate Lights: white, controlled by the headlamp switch
- Reverse Lights: white, controlled by gearshift position (lights ON if gearshift is in “Reverse”)
- Taillights: red dual-filament bulbs (1157)
Filament 1 acts as a marker light and is controlled by the headlamp switch
Filament 2 operates as both turn signal (flashing) and stop lamp (solid), TURN SIGNAL takes precedence over STOP;
EXAMPLE: if braking and signaling left, the Left Taillight will flash while Right Taillight will be solid
GOALS
- Add amber turn signals to rear of the car (Rear Amber Lights)
- Make appropriate modification(s) so in each Taillight Filament 2 operates only as a stop lamp
- If necessary, restoration to Stock [Lighting] Configuration requires minimal effort
PROJECT AREAS
There are three “areas” of the project:
- Choosing Amber Lights
- Turn Signal Switch (TSS)
- Rear Turn Wiring
CHOICE OF AMBER LIGHTS
I chose to use Switchback LED strips that are wired to use only the yellow LEDs (the white LEDs are not connected to a power source) and then affixed them to the top of the Reverse Lights.
Note An idea I was pursuing was to wire the Reverse Lights with switchback LED bulbs; this would have required changing the original 1156 (single-filament) Right-Angle Reverse Light sockets to 1157
(double-filament) Right-Angle sockets and wiring the sockets so:
- White filament of both Switchback LEDs lights-up when car shifted into “Reverse”
- Yellow filament of appropriate Switchback LED lights-up as a turn signal
I rejected this idea when during a night-time test I noticed that the Reverse Lights didn’t seem to be evenly illuminated across the ‘strip’ of the light housing as the bulbs are not centered in the strip but are about 1/3 of the way from the license plate … I felt the concentration of yellow light from a turn signal would be too close to the centerline of the car and thus may not be a good indicator of the
“direction of turn”
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I also considered somehow modifying the Reverse Light housings – as in taking them apart to do some sort of modification – but I rejected that idea as if I ever again needed to replace the Reverse Lights I would have to repeat the modification and, well, I don’t want to be breaking any during my “experiments”
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TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
DISCUSSION
Figure 3.1-1 has the electrical schematic of the Turn Signal Switch (TSS) for the 2-door Cutlass Supreme, taken from the “1986 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme / Custom Cruiser Service Manual;” note:
- TSS has an input from the Brake Switch (white wire)
- TSS has inputs from the Turn Signal Flasher and Hazard Flasher, position of their respective switches determines which lights flash … to include that for the Rear Taillights, “Turn Flash” overrides “[Solid] Brake” overrides “Hazard Flash”
- There is only one output to the Left Taillight (yellow wire)
- There is only one output to the Right Taillight (green wire)
… therefore the solution will have to:
- For the Taillights, “override the overrides”
- Make the Rear Amber Lights work as appropriate
Figure 3.1-1. Cutlass Supreme (2-Dr) Exterior Lights
For ideas of how to solve the problem, I had a vague memory there were GM cars in the ‘80s designed with Rear Amber Lights and after some research focused on 1986 Oldsmobile Delta 88s; these vehicles have Rear Amber Lights and as they are the same-year model as my Cutlass Supreme:
- IF the TSSs were the difference – and thus maybe part of the solution – then it was very likely the Delta 88 TSS would physically fit in my Cutlass Supreme
- High chance that documents & diagrams to be analyzed would be written/depicted in the same editorial style as manuals I already own
- If I would have had to buy additional books (which I did end-up doing) the additions would round-out / look better next to the ’86 manuals I already own
Figure 3.1-2 shows the TSS for the C/H cars, taken from the “1986 Oldsmobile Electrical Troubleshooting Supplement;” note:
- The TSS has the same “overrides” circuitry
- For Delta 88s, the Brake Switch does not connect to the TSS – it goes straight back to the taillights – therefore the overrides are not used in Delta 88s
… and referring to parts catalogs confirmed the ’86 Cutlass Supremes used the same model TSS as the ’86 Delta 88s.
Figure 3.1-2. C and H Turn/Hazard/Stop Lights
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The conceptual solution:
- Run two new wires – Left Rear Amber & Right Rear Amber – between the TSS and the (new) Rear Amber Lights
- Connect/splice these wires directly, without passing-through the TSS:
- Brake Switch Output (white wire)
- Left Taillight (yellow wire)
- Right Taillight (green wire)
- Connect the (new) Left Rear Amber & Right Rear Amber wires to the TSS
IMPLEMENTATION
Preparation
- Buy:
- A set of TSS connectors, including wire terminals
- 1 brand-new TSS
- Convert the new TSS into an Adapter Harness; on the new TSS:
- Cut off the assembly that is connected to the steering wheel / turn signal lever
- At the “steering wheel end” of the wires:
- Splice together the white, yellow, and green wires
- Mount a terminal at the end of each of the other wires and arrange them in a female TSS connector in same slots/order as on TSS; think of this as
Connector New Female 2 (NF2) while the other end is Connector New Male 2 (NM2)
In the car
- Ensure the new Left Rear Amber and Right Rear Amber wires have been run
- Mount a terminal at the TSS end of each of the (new) Left Rear Amber & Right Rear Amber wires
- Separate the Body Harness/TSS connection, connector designators are:
- Body Harness: Existing Female 1 (EF1)
- TSS: Existing Male 1 (EM1)
- On NF2, insert the Left Rear Amber & Right Rear Amber terminals into the appropriate “Left Rear” & “Right Rear” slots
- Connect EM1 to NF2
- Connect EF1 to NM2
NOTE Adapter Harness is the second/revised idea; original idea was to physically swap terminals in EF1 & use new TSS connectors to make the splice but test fitting found there was not enough slack in the wires to safely remove terminals from the connector |
Figure 3.2-1. As-Bought TSS
Figure 3.2-2. Prep of Step 2.2
Figure 3.2-3. Splice Made & Terminals Mounted
Figure 3.2-4. Adapter Harness
Figure 3.2-5. Electrical Schematic