Rear Coilover Upgrade Tips

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Benwa

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 18, 2020
41
43
18
Winslow Illinois
In finishing the front suspension I have decided to move forward with the rear suspension. I currently have southside machine lower control arms and edelbrock adjustable upper control arms mounting a 10.5 gm rear end. The shocks are from 20 years ago and still work, as well as the original springs but i am adding rear bracing for the body mounts to stiffen the rear up and decided to just go coilover in the process. The 10.5 has an ultimate cover with bars going to the ends of the axel housing. When welding the coilover brackets on the axel has anyone found a sweet spot or can you move inward as far as you like? I sumped the factory fuel tank and would need to keep proper clearance for suspension movement. Also when welding the upper shock bar in the frame would it be wise to tie that in to any other locations while I am at it?
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bracketchev1221

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2018
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Does the car have a roll bar? I would put an x bar and tie the spring mount into the roll bar. and also put the shocks as far apart as reasonable to enhance stability.
 
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Benwa

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 18, 2020
41
43
18
Winslow Illinois
No roll bar as of yet. Not trying to make a corner carver but would like better handling if i could achieve it with what i am doing.
 
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Benwa

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 18, 2020
41
43
18
Winslow Illinois
Going to have to relocate the axel braces. Which means making different bars for them as they are in valuable real-estate. Hypothetically has anyone switched to a 9"? Seems easier at this point but probably just the heat talking... been pretty hot in the garage past week or so.
 

bracketchev1221

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2018
1,405
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Honestly I would just remove the axle brace. It doesn't really do much with the control arm outboard of the brace.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
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Upstate NY
What's your end game here?

Asking because it appears that you are planning on either making this in to a corner carver or a drag car. But each of those requires a different approach and a couple of different parts. And seeing as how it looks like you'll be removing some previously installed modifications, I'd say it would be best to do this once and be done.

My $.02 and nice shocks BTW
 
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Benwa

Not-quite-so-new-guy
May 18, 2020
41
43
18
Winslow Illinois
Well i guess that in the 23 years that i have owned the car its goal has been acceleration, but it still has to be driveable.This axel came from a guy that was rear-ended after he finished his restoration so it has a slightly tweaked tube on one side. Thats why there are braces on it. They have been there under this car for 20 years. They have kept it straight and true. Axles are mosher's with c clip eliminator's and it it turned by a full spool with 410 gear. All that back story to say this... if it was yours how would you do it? Do move the shocks as far as possible to the backing plates? Do you keep the upper shock mount vertical from the lower or bring it inward? I have seen bolt on kits where there is a decent angle of the dangle on the rear coilovers and i am wondering what the benefit to that would be... handling? Seen a lot of big tire cars and the shocks are straight up and down because the tire is so large thats all the room thay have left. I have a blank canvas as of now... how would you paint it?
 
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