Rear disc and Coil Overs

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Rt Jam

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Mar 30, 2020
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Is your calipers mounted on front of axle or behind?

When I mount them behind they get kind of close to coil spring.
 

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Streetbu

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May 22, 2011
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Need to make some right angle adapters to move the coilovers inward just a tick. Very simple with some angle iron and a welder. Check out my build thread towards the end when I switched to rear disc.
 
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oldsofb

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Had the same issue with my install. They were hitting the coil overs. I just clocked them to the front and done. Had to swap sides to keep the bleeders on top.
IMG_4810.JPG


Hutch
 
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RabbitHoleSS

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Dec 8, 2019
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Most kits will instruct you to mount the calipers opposite of the shocks for clearance. Mine didn't come close so I mounted them on the back, but I made a bracket like Streetbu mentioned.
 
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Streetbu

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RabbitHoleSS

Post #825

 
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CopperNick

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The only difference that I can see with clocking at the 9 o'clock position vs the 3 o'clock one, is the one 9 o/c, may cause the rear end to rise slightly during braking due to rotation, and the other, 3 o/c may cause it to squat. What is going on is that the action of the caliper on the rotor acts on the suspension by loading or unloading it. One way you get a little rise and some dynamic weight transfer which can lighten or unload the rear end, while with the other you get squat and the weight tends to stay over the rear end increasing the downward force it applies to the road surface.

Most of all this is something the road course runners get into seriously simply because suspension loading and unloading affects how they get into and out of the various corners on a road course.

The bracket to move the lower mount inboard for additional clearance is a good idea because, apart from gaining the room, the shock gets moved into a more vertical position, meaning it can work more efficiently under load or unload, i.e. compression and rebound.



Nick
 
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Rt Jam

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Mar 30, 2020
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Well I tried in front and above axle. Zero chance this will clear the frame. Even behind there is only 2 or 3" between the caliper looks close to frame, probably fine if the car sits high.

The first effort at mounting the coil over was using the UMI supplied lower mounts. Probably work for a stock lower control arm mount but I have a Moser housing with relocated mounting brackets and with the UMI mount. It hits the tire. So I will need to mount the stand off directly to the Moser relocated lower control arm bracket. It looks close but with the bottom of this all moving together. I don't think it will be a problem. Especially since I ran into my next clearance issue.
 

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CopperNick

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Would a rim with a shallower backset move the wheel outward just enough to get you that clearance or would it crash against the edge of the wheel well lip?



Nick
 

Rt Jam

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Mar 30, 2020
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Next issue is caliper to rim clearance. I read alot about this disc kit working with 15" rims but the real truth is it needs 15" rims with a big barrel. My original 15" Grand National rims have a giant drop bead area making this a no go.

Yes Nick, the problem can be resolved with a different rim, I'm considering many options at the moment. I really wanted to run the original rims.
Going back to drums is not an easy swap $$ wise since I have big Ford bearings on this rear axle. I do like the 16" GNX rims, unsure of offset onto a GN and tire selection in 16" is not good. G body Parts has an aluminum GN wheel but unsure of barrel clearance. I did get a 15" Centerline to clear but I absolutely do not want to run those.

ET Street is the GN steel wheel, no fit.
Mickey Thompson is the 15" Centerline, lots of clearance.
 

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