Rear end alignment issue

[Baker7888]

I have tubular control arms, a sway bar and cargo springs in the rear of my malibu. I unbolted one of the upper control arms at the rear end
to gain access to a spot that i wanted to set an exhaust hanger. The bolt came out hard. When i went to re bolt the control arm, the holes didnt line up and i had to fight the bolt back in with a drift pin, and ended up undoing the lower at this point to help it go. I have had this axle out twice before. I remember it being a struggle both times but not this bad. I couldnt figure out what exactly was pushing it out of alignment. Is there a certain order to help ease frustration? May need to do other side. All bushings are new.

 

[81camel]

When I changed my lowers to UMI tubular arms I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the axle forward on the second side to get the bolts in. At the time when I looked into it, it sounded normal. But will let others chime in...

 

[Baker7888]

When I changed my lowers to UMI tubular arms I had to use a ratchet strap to pull the axle forward on the second side to get the bolts in. At the time when I looked into it, it sounded normal. But will let others chime in...

I had considered that. What did you run the other end of the ratchet strap to? I am on jack stands at 4 corners under the frame.

 

[81camel]

I had considered that. What did you run the other end of the ratchet strap to? I am on jack stands at 4 corners under the frame.

I wrapped around the axle and then hooked to a hole in the frame behind front wheels. Could possibly hook it to the crossmember, but I dont know if that would be a structural concern.

 

[Rt Jam]

Do not expect the rear to stay in the exact spot to reinsert the bolt when you disconnect it.

 

[Baker7888]

Do not expect the rear to stay in the exact spot to reinsert the bolt when you disconnect it.

So is the ratchet strap idea standard practice?

 

[Baker7888]

I wrapped around the axle and then hooked to a hole in the frame behind front wheels. Could possibly hook it to the crossmember, but I dont know if that would be a structural concern.

Did it give up pretty easy or did you have to put serious tension on it?

 

[81camel]

Did it give up pretty easy or did you have to put serious tension on it?

I had some fairly wimpy straps (i used two) and it was very hard to get it moved enough. Make sure its very stable on your stands. having some ratchets that are a bit more beefy with good leverage would help a lot i think.

 

[Sweet_Johnny]

I unfastened both lowers on my El Camino while leaving the uppers connected and it still made me jump. The car was on stands and the diff was supported by a jack in what I thought was a "normal" position.

I think when assembling I'm going to attach the lowers first since they're nearly straight and it should be easier to line up the second bolt after starting the first. The uppers being at such an angle just makes things difficult- you adjust up and down using a jack that moves on an arc and can roll front to back but not side to side.

I also think the springs are complicating things for you- since they're not 100% perfectly straight vertical they're moving things rearward. The rear swings on an arc so your springs will curve slightly as they compress. I'm assuming that the bolt was removed while the car was elevated somehow but it'll be under some sort of pressure/twist any time the car isn't resting at ride height. This seems like a situation where removing other parts and fasteners might actually save some time over fighting the single one you wish to remove, although I would have done the same thing. I recently went through a similar situation with my exhaust where I fought it both ways because I didn't wish to remove every single piece.

I propose that the easiest way would be to unbolt the lower shock mounts and remove the springs before wrestling with the differential at all. I could see me fighting to align a C.A. mount much longer than that would take. I'd even consider removing the driveshaft if the C.A. bolt(s) were to be removed again as it provides more resistance to any adjustments in addition to two springs and shocks as well as bushings that are being articulated. You had to fight half a dozen things to line up the bolt holes.

 

[John Canon]

Maybe the driveshaft is "too long" and the splines at the tailshaft have bottomed out. The bolt holes at the second control arm would be a tight fit no matter which side is installed first.