Hey everyone, I have completed an LS swap and now am hooking up AC. Better late than never! But I cannot find the right thread adapter to recharge the system either connecting to the AC line or accumulator. Bonus points for a link!
Recharge Air Conditioning
- Thread starter buhler86
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What accumulator and A/C line are you using? What refrigerant are you going to use?
As I recall, the OE R12 setup required hose adapters to charge, but I haven't put R12 in a G body in almost 20 years
As I recall, the OE R12 setup required hose adapters to charge, but I haven't put R12 in a G body in almost 20 years
The gauge set didn't have the adapter fittings? Yikes! You need these R134 quick-connects to fit the adapters that convert the R-12 to R134 fittings:
Ok thanks guys, I am going to fill with this refrigerant: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/red-tek-aerosol-12a-refrigerant-can-6-oz-0146116p.html#srp. 4 Seasons #33185 Accumulator (https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=815104&cc=1056338&jsn=452) Custom made hoses between LS compressor and car condenser / condenser and accumulator. Stock line from condenser to heater box.
Like I said, I got adapters from the local shop, but they didnt work, so I don't want to order online only to find out they are wrong...
Is this comparible to what you posted? https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07WRBG2CH/?tag=rippca-20
Like I said, I got adapters from the local shop, but they didnt work, so I don't want to order online only to find out they are wrong...
Did you pull vacuum first? Get any air and moisture out of the system before charging.
Those hoses are for R-12, R-22, etc. They are last generation refrigerants. Since R-12 is almost impossible to find and super, super expensive if you do, you are probably going to be running R134a. Bonnewagon is pointing you in the right direction. I have a good friend who is an a/c guy for a living and he tells me that R134a is a gas blend and when initially filling the system, you should add the Freon as a liquid (container upside down).
Also, you compressor readings are going to be higher with R134a than with R12. I'm in the deep south and its summer time. My gauges read 40-55 psi on the low side and 220 - 230 psi on the high side AT AN IDLE!! Remember that raising the revs on the engine turns the compressor proportionately faster. This runs high side up and low side down. Your system should have a low pressure cut off, so starting off a little undercharged is better than overcharge. Better to add more Freon as you tune the system in than have to let it out from too much. (To much Freon will also keep the system from blowing cold air.)
Also, be absolutely sure you use the right Pag oil in your compressor. Make sure you get the previous oil out if it is not the same grade. Also, too much Pag oil will affect cooling. You compressor will have a spec on how many ounces of oil to add but remember that if you are replacing a blown compressor, there will already be some oil in the accumulator (if you aren't changing it) and you have to allow for that. Depending on the situation, some people don't replace the accumulator when replacing the compressor. If you are upgrading to R134a from something else, you should definitely replace the accumulator and any desiccant products in the system.
When changing, adding or charging the system with Freon, allow about three to five minutes after every time adding or letting out any gas. It takes about this long for the pressures to completely re-balance and stabilize. You know you are getting close when the vents start to blow cool-cold and even closer when the condensation drain starts leaking water. Frost on the low side (fat line) means you are still undercharged. I replaced my compressor recently, correctly charged my truck and had it not cool consistently for about three days. It would blow cold for a while and then cool. Cold for a while and then cool. My friend said that I probably have a little too much Pag oil in the system and it took that long for it to collect wherever it did. He said be patient for a couple of days and he was right. Cools its a$$ off now. (Mine too, thank God!!)
The high side line gets beau-caup hot!! Probably not a good idea to grab it to see if things are working. Spend a couple of dollars and buy a little a/c thermometer. They are about $4 at the parts place. R134a should easily give you at least 35 degrees of temperature separation. When its 102f here my truck gets down to about 58f. One last thing, if the fan for the condenser isn't running or running at full speed, you get no cold air and you can fry that compressor. That should actually be number one on the trouble shoot check list.
Good luck!!!
Also, you compressor readings are going to be higher with R134a than with R12. I'm in the deep south and its summer time. My gauges read 40-55 psi on the low side and 220 - 230 psi on the high side AT AN IDLE!! Remember that raising the revs on the engine turns the compressor proportionately faster. This runs high side up and low side down. Your system should have a low pressure cut off, so starting off a little undercharged is better than overcharge. Better to add more Freon as you tune the system in than have to let it out from too much. (To much Freon will also keep the system from blowing cold air.)
Also, be absolutely sure you use the right Pag oil in your compressor. Make sure you get the previous oil out if it is not the same grade. Also, too much Pag oil will affect cooling. You compressor will have a spec on how many ounces of oil to add but remember that if you are replacing a blown compressor, there will already be some oil in the accumulator (if you aren't changing it) and you have to allow for that. Depending on the situation, some people don't replace the accumulator when replacing the compressor. If you are upgrading to R134a from something else, you should definitely replace the accumulator and any desiccant products in the system.
When changing, adding or charging the system with Freon, allow about three to five minutes after every time adding or letting out any gas. It takes about this long for the pressures to completely re-balance and stabilize. You know you are getting close when the vents start to blow cool-cold and even closer when the condensation drain starts leaking water. Frost on the low side (fat line) means you are still undercharged. I replaced my compressor recently, correctly charged my truck and had it not cool consistently for about three days. It would blow cold for a while and then cool. Cold for a while and then cool. My friend said that I probably have a little too much Pag oil in the system and it took that long for it to collect wherever it did. He said be patient for a couple of days and he was right. Cools its a$$ off now. (Mine too, thank God!!)
The high side line gets beau-caup hot!! Probably not a good idea to grab it to see if things are working. Spend a couple of dollars and buy a little a/c thermometer. They are about $4 at the parts place. R134a should easily give you at least 35 degrees of temperature separation. When its 102f here my truck gets down to about 58f. One last thing, if the fan for the condenser isn't running or running at full speed, you get no cold air and you can fry that compressor. That should actually be number one on the trouble shoot check list.
Good luck!!!
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