Recommended rear control arms??
- Thread starter eazyj
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I'm a big fan of UMI Performance parts. www.umiperformance.com
Depending on your build and budget, there's a wide range of arms to choose from. Personally I'm just at a stage 1, which is tubular arms and poly bushings. If I ever get a big engine, I'll be looking at roto joints. I hope that helps!
Depending on your build and budget, there's a wide range of arms to choose from. Personally I'm just at a stage 1, which is tubular arms and poly bushings. If I ever get a big engine, I'll be looking at roto joints. I hope that helps!
Poly joints can bind even at stock HP levels. The rear suspension in these cars requires some secondary axis of rotation, which the stock rubber bushings and arms allow, roto joints also allows second axis. Poly bushings, especially used with boxed or tubed arms will bind as they don't allow secondary axis rotation. This binding can lead to snap oversteer, where a car without warning goes from understeer to oversteer condition that is nearly impossible to correct, which means you will crash if it happens.
You keep on repeating this but I have to dis-agree.
I had the stock upper & lower arms boxed with poly bushings and ran it like this for over 10 years.
No signs of binding or "snap oversteer" and I never crashed my car.
The arms still looked good when I took them off,the holes were still as round as when they were put in.
Please stop trying to use scare tactics where its not called for.
Guy
In the rear I have UMI conversion uppers and UMI lowers. Both have roto joint at one end and have worked flawlessly for years.
you can;t box the uppers, the OEM uppers are designed to twist to prevent bind. Here is a picture of an elongated hole on an upper control arm that was boxed. The hole was deformed due to the binding caused by the upper being prevented from twisting.
Agreed on the UMI control arms. I installed those as part of one of their suspension packages and they bolted up without issue and have performed without fail. For what it's worth, they look nice too...
It all comes down to application! Most of the binding you hear about concerning poly bushings is from overtightening, If you torque poly to factory rubber torque specs you will bind it, meaning you will smash the mounts against the face of the poly bushing and cause all kinds of problems.
Now Poly bushings will bind when the car is driven hard enough. I think if your binding poly bushings on a street application chances are you shouldn't be doing what your doing on the street( yea i know it happens...lol)
Our roto-joint works great for either application, it gives articulation which is needed if your using it in an application that calls for the ability to articulate and has delrin bushing around the spherical ball that gives a pretty decent street ride. They are 100% rebuildable if needed and hold up to some pretty good abuse. We run these on all our house cars.
If anybody needs any info please feel free to call me here at the shop.
Craig
Now Poly bushings will bind when the car is driven hard enough. I think if your binding poly bushings on a street application chances are you shouldn't be doing what your doing on the street( yea i know it happens...lol)
Our roto-joint works great for either application, it gives articulation which is needed if your using it in an application that calls for the ability to articulate and has delrin bushing around the spherical ball that gives a pretty decent street ride. They are 100% rebuildable if needed and hold up to some pretty good abuse. We run these on all our house cars.
If anybody needs any info please feel free to call me here at the shop.
Craig
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