My trans is shot in my 86 regal and was trying to see who can walk me thru taking it out without removing engine. Or if someone has pics or videos. Thanks.
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REGAL Removing transmission help
- Thread starter 9millameter08
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I have done a few. It will take a couple of hours, 2-4 to remove, 2-4 to install, so, have a dedicated 8 hours to do it (who knows, you might only need four of them)
.You do not have to remove the engine, and this can be done in the home garage or driveway with the proper tools.
ie, good floor jack, FOUR Jack stands, some long 3/8 ratchet extensions, 1/2, 9/16. 13mm or 14mm swivel socket and some basic hand tools.
May want to disconnect shift cable from carburetor first.
Raise the car and put it on the four jack stands
probably best to drain the transmission
Remove the torque converter cover, and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate / flywheel
Unbolt / un attach the shifter linkage.
Remove driveshaft
Remove Six (6) bolts from bell housing to engine. keep in mind , one (or more) of these will hold trans fill tube/dipstick in place and some of the wire loom
Support transmission on a good jack ( I prefer an actual transmission jack, but a floor jack will do, I also like a nice piece of plywood between the jack pad and trans pan.
Remove the transmission crossmember
Check for any other connections to the transmission ( wires, plugs, connectors, vacuum lines etc.)
CAUTION, THE TRANS WILL BE VERY FRONT HEAVY!
With everything disconnected, the transmission should be able to be slid rearward.
Lower jack, and, working carefully, slide jack out from under transmission
I like to pull trans out from under car by the tail housing, , it gives me leverage if I have to tip the bell housing forward and down to clear frame rails and stuff while removing it from the car.
EVERYONE, IF I MISSED ANYTHING, PLEASE CHIME IN!!!
Good Luck!
.You do not have to remove the engine, and this can be done in the home garage or driveway with the proper tools.
ie, good floor jack, FOUR Jack stands, some long 3/8 ratchet extensions, 1/2, 9/16. 13mm or 14mm swivel socket and some basic hand tools.
May want to disconnect shift cable from carburetor first.
Raise the car and put it on the four jack stands
probably best to drain the transmission
Remove the torque converter cover, and unbolt the torque converter from the flexplate / flywheel
Unbolt / un attach the shifter linkage.
Remove driveshaft
Remove Six (6) bolts from bell housing to engine. keep in mind , one (or more) of these will hold trans fill tube/dipstick in place and some of the wire loom
Support transmission on a good jack ( I prefer an actual transmission jack, but a floor jack will do, I also like a nice piece of plywood between the jack pad and trans pan.
Remove the transmission crossmember
Check for any other connections to the transmission ( wires, plugs, connectors, vacuum lines etc.)
CAUTION, THE TRANS WILL BE VERY FRONT HEAVY!
With everything disconnected, the transmission should be able to be slid rearward.
Lower jack, and, working carefully, slide jack out from under transmission
I like to pull trans out from under car by the tail housing, , it gives me leverage if I have to tip the bell housing forward and down to clear frame rails and stuff while removing it from the car.
EVERYONE, IF I MISSED ANYTHING, PLEASE CHIME IN!!!
Good Luck!
the only thing I can add is with the transmission crossmember removed I would drop the transmission down which makes it easy to get to the top bolts on the bellhousing with long 3/8 extension and the swivel joint. Depending on what engine you have you may need to remove the distributor cap so it won't get broken hitting the firewall when you drop the transmission down. You will also need to remove the top part of the cooling fan shroud so the fan won't break it
To make it easier to install the transmission I use about 8" long studs in the 2 top holes on the block which I find helps to line up the transmission.
To make it easier to install the transmission I use about 8" long studs in the 2 top holes on the block which I find helps to line up the transmission.
When my buddy & I did the annual transmission swap in the Monte (pre stick), we would support the engine oil pan on a floor jack with a 2x4 to adjust the angle of the engine/transmission to remove/replace. With a second set of hands you could get it done in two hours or less (I have replaced more than my fair share of A/G body trannys & having someone else there makes it easier.) Just make sure you have everything on hand before you start. Replace the dipstick seal before installing the new transmission.
Keep in mind, once the trans is free of the engine, the engine will either tilt forwards (chevy) or rearwards (Buick v6, maybe olds) depending on where the motor mounts are on the block. My 350 Buick and the 3.8 like to tilt towards the firewall, making it annoying to get a trans back in and lined up properly. Take the carb off and use a lift plate and an engine hoist (if you have one), or a 2x4 across the fenders with a chain or tow strap holding the engine level, biasing frontwards or rearwards, again depending where your motor mounts are. Will make reinstalling a ton simpler. Also... what trans are you replacing? 3 Speed Th200c? Th350? 4 speed Th2004r?
A Th200 and a Th350 (both three speeds, both have a nevada shaped pan, only one has a little modulator on the rear passenger side [th350]) will swap in place of eachother with no fuss, but a Th200r4 will only swap in place with another 200r4, or a 700r4. BUT, if you have an olds or Buick engine, you'll need a BOP bolt pattern transmission to match or it simply will not bolt on. All 700r4 are chevy bolt pattern, as are pretty much all gm o/d transmissions newer than the 200r4. Use blue thread locker on the trans to block bolts, and converter to flexplate bolts. They'll shake themselves loose over time.
A Th200 and a Th350 (both three speeds, both have a nevada shaped pan, only one has a little modulator on the rear passenger side [th350]) will swap in place of eachother with no fuss, but a Th200r4 will only swap in place with another 200r4, or a 700r4. BUT, if you have an olds or Buick engine, you'll need a BOP bolt pattern transmission to match or it simply will not bolt on. All 700r4 are chevy bolt pattern, as are pretty much all gm o/d transmissions newer than the 200r4. Use blue thread locker on the trans to block bolts, and converter to flexplate bolts. They'll shake themselves loose over time.
Unless it is a late-model full perimeter one-piece bellhousing like a 4L60E... then you can write off a weekend for the re & re. FML I hate those things.
How do i go about removing my transmission in my 86 regal 305?? Steps or pics would help. Putting in a 700r4. But need the old one out.
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did you forget you already started a thread about removing the transmission?
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/transmisson-removal-86-regal.68942/#post-631895
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/transmisson-removal-86-regal.68942/#post-631895
You just unbolt the old transmission and bolt in the new one. You need to get the car about 18" to the frame rails, but its doable in a driveway.
You probably have to shorten the driveshaft 3" for a 700R4.
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