Ridetech Rear Control Arm installation ?

Goldhawg

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Mar 27, 2021
24
3
The Ridetech control arms I bought (for a G-body complete kit) come with a h/w kit of 1/2" bolts, when my freshly powder-coated frame appears to be 12mm bolts (definitely smaller). What did others do? Drill out (aargh!) or is there a sleeve that could go into the lower and upper control arm that mounts to the frame?
 

PBGBodyFan

G-Body Guru
Supporting Member
Mar 3, 2009
616
93
Wisconsin
I ended up re-using the stock hardware, I found this to be annoying as well. My frame wasn’t powdercoated but I didn’t want to start drilling/hogging out holes either.

The front’s I did later on and their bolts work/fit fine.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
8,447
113
Michigan
If your control arms are designed for 1/2" bolts I would just drill out the frame to accommodate them, you are only drilling them another .028.
I do this every time I install jounce bars on the frame mount except I tap them for 1/2-20.
 
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Goldhawg

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Mar 27, 2021
24
3
I ended up re-using the stock hardware, I found this to be annoying as well. My frame wasn’t powdercoated but I didn’t want to start drilling/hogging out holes either.

The front’s I did later on and their bolts work/fit fine.
Paradoxically I have no bolts associated with the fronts! (EDIT--I found the bolt kit in the box with the true turn steering pieces; no fault of Ridetech it was just in another box)
 
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Goldhawg

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Mar 27, 2021
24
3
If your control arms are designed for 1/2" bolts I would just drill out the frame to accommodate them, you are only drilling them another .028.
I do this every time I install jounce bars on the frame mount except I tap them for 1/2-20.
Yeah, I was leaning to going this way. Still sucks that they sell a kit that doesn't work for your application. At least they should have warned; I could've had the holes drilled prior to powdercoating if I'd have known.
 

565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
8,447
113
Michigan
Yeah, I was leaning to going this way. Still sucks that they sell a kit that doesn't work for your application. At least they should have warned; I could've had the holes drilled prior to powdercoating if I'd have known.
Maybe get a small can of POR 15 or something equivalent and dab some on the holes with a Q tip or something after drilling
 

Streetbu

Know it all, that doesn't
Supporting Member
May 22, 2011
2,645
113
Central NY
This is the exact reason high end professional shops completely assemble a vehicle first, then take it all apart for the final finishes.
 
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Goldhawg

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Thread starter
Mar 27, 2021
24
3
This is the exact reason high end professional shops completely assemble a vehicle first, then take it all apart for the final finishes.
Yeah, the high end shops making $$$ from somebody else. I'm going to get this Frame off restoration of my 87 GN done in 3 months of night and weekend play. Only paint will be outsourced. BTW, when I drilled thru the powder coating on the rear it came out clean--no chipping of the powder coat around the edges of the hole. I just applied some paint before bolting in to the inner part of the hole.
 
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vandall

Apprentice
Aug 3, 2015
82
33
Seattle, WA
I know the feeling. I have been doing a build on a 68 Chevelle, did the frame powder coating and had to drill holes for the Holley motor mounts. It's a sickening feeling but I did what 565bbchevy mentioned, just dabbed some primer and paint on the exposed metal. I used full Ridetech kit as well on that and I did have to do a bit of drilling but it was prior to coating. Like you, trying to do as much work on my own as possible. Post some pics!
 
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