Roll Cage & Other Chassis Braces

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Nov 4, 2012
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I've always been concerned about flexing in my G Body. Last night as I went to the local dirt track, I was wondering if I could transfer some of what the dirt cars had in their cars to stiffen them, to my Buick. I was looking at the roll cages in them and was wondering if a cage would do anything significant in my car. Will it? Jegs sells an 8 point cage for around $200. I already have a rear seat brace, the double "x" design one. I also have the rad support-to-fender braces. I made both of those out of 1 in. galvanized steel conduit. Anyways, is there anywhere else I should brace, and does anyone else have a roll cage or any of these other braces? And have you noticed a difference?
 
A roll cage isn't exactly safe to have on a street car because you run the risk of hitting your head on the tubing during a collision. A 6-8pt roll bar would be a little safer but just remember, that $200 price tag doesn't include the cost of the installation. A proper, custom bent and certified 6-8pt roll bar in a G-body will run in the $1500-$2000 neighborhood.

Will it stiffen the chassis, most definitely. But if that is all your wanting, it's not very cost effective.
 
I can paint it and install it. Hell, I didnt spend $1500 on the car. And not to say I won't get into an accident, God forbid, but my car will be driven roughly 10 miles a week and only during the summer months, so only about 160 miles a year. And I don't know what you mean by 'certified', but the cage I'm referring to is NHRA legal, not that my car will be raced.
 
I have a 6 point bar in my wagon what a difference it made. Car is stiff as a board. Only down fall i have found is that with the car being more stiff you tend to get alot more vibration and rattle/ squeck noise from the bar. Not something i would want out of a street car. Track car who cares
 
joesregalproject said:
I can paint it and install it. Hell, I didnt spend $1500 on the car. And not to say I won't get into an accident, God forbid, but my car will be driven roughly 10 miles a week and only during the summer months, so only about 160 miles a year. And I don't know what you mean by 'certified', but the cage I'm referring to is NHRA legal, not that my car will be raced.

To be certified involves having a tech go through and check all aspects of your cage and installation from tubing wall thickness to all of your welds, a cage or roll bar is only NHRA legal when installed correctly with the proper bars in the right places as shown in the rule book and even if you don't plan on going to a track it is still best to design and install your cage based on these specs for your own safety.
I have no issue with a cage on the street but to do it properly you have to weld it to the frame which means the first thing you want to do is put in new body mounts either urethane or solid because this will be the last time you can lift the body to install them.
The installation of the cage requires very good welding skills and a good amount of fabrication, if it is not installed correctly it will do more harm than good.
So if you have the welding and fabrication skills and a good mig welder, tubing bender and tubing notcher etc. then you should be able to install it.
Since your interior will be out when installing a cage do mock ups for seat clearance ( front and rear) and door panels, door handles opening clearance etc. because you don't want to get everything welded in only to find out your bars hit or rub on an interior part or you can get your back seat in.
 
If you are just driving it on the street a cage is a big step. How much HP do you have? Do you have a sway bar?
 

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It's only a V6 car that has been slightly modded, probably about 120-125 hp. No sway bar currently. The car does not have a lot of noticeable flex, but the B pillars were cracked, and I want to do everything I can to make sure the don't crack again.

Here's the cage I was looking at- http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... Grp=search
 
565bbchevy said:
joesregalproject said:
I can paint it and install it. Hell, I didnt spend $1500 on the car. And not to say I won't get into an accident, God forbid, but my car will be driven roughly 10 miles a week and only during the summer months, so only about 160 miles a year. And I don't know what you mean by 'certified', but the cage I'm referring to is NHRA legal, not that my car will be raced.

To be certified involves having a tech go through and check all aspects of your cage and installation from tubing wall thickness to all of your welds, a cage or roll bar is only NHRA legal when installed correctly with the proper bars in the right places as shown in the rule book and even if you don't plan on going to a track it is still best to design and install your cage based on these specs for your own safety.
I have no issue with a cage on the street but to do it properly you have to weld it to the frame which means the first thing you want to do is put in new body mounts either urethane or solid because this will be the last time you can lift the body to install them.
The installation of the cage requires very good welding skills and a good amount of fabrication, if it is not installed correctly it will do more harm than good.
So if you have the welding and fabrication skills and a good mig welder, tubing bender and tubing notcher etc. then you should be able to install it.
Since your interior will be out when installing a cage do mock ups for seat clearance ( front and rear) and door panels, door handles opening clearance etc. because you don't want to get everything welded in only to find out your bars hit or rub on an interior part or you can get your back seat in.

I agree completely with you, although I'm looking at purchasing a pre- fabricated cage, and I believe it only requires the plates be welded to the floor, and not the frame. I don't know that I'd be willing to weld a cage to the frame, although I'd have no issue welding one to the floor.
 
Unless your going to the frame your wasting your time. That 6 doesn't have enough power to worry about - save your money. Stock rear sway would help your handling. There are a lot of tweeks you can do to your frame but unless you get into some serious HP it's a waste.
 
I think you might be right. I'm going to take you're advice. Honestly, I dont think this car would make a good strip car. It would be best as a cruiser. Eventually I'll build a street/strip car, but its not gonna be this one. The rear seat brace that I have should be enough to keep my b pillar from splitting again.
 
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