Silverado 5.3 update 12/11

[mikester]

Good story for you folks. Well, maybe some of you might enjoy this.
Five years ago I bought a 2013 1500 Crewcab 4x4. Truck had 21K on it and was a certified GM vehicle. One owner truck that was mint. I drove 7 hrs to buy it. When I bought it the dealer gave me a screaming deal on the truck, the trade in and the interest rate. He also gave me a great price on an extended GM warranty. Five years/96K miles bumper to bumper with a $100 deductable.
Two years ago I had an issue with oil pressure. They replaced the sender. Next time it was a screen and sender. Not sure what it was the third time. Last year when I was driving down the road a rapid chime started going off. Oil pressure dropped to zero. I shut the truck off as soon as the chime started to ding. Had it towed to the dealer. Oil pump failed. They pulled everything apart, no damage. They had the truck for close to a month due to most of the techs being out with Covid. Not a problem. Stuff happens.
This Spring the pressure dropped again. Just under 20lbs. The check engine light came on. Back to the dealer. This time they put a Melling pump in. It was fine until two weeks ago. Start the truck, pressures close to 50lbs. It drops to 40 by the time I get to the end of my street. Local driving its around 35 on the gauge. Two weeks ago after sriving 40+ miles it dropped to the 20 line again. Back to the dealer.
The service manager told me this week theyre pushing for a new long block. The reps been there already. He made a comment about the condition of the truck. Needless to say the trucks spotless. Its got 93K on the clock and the warranty expires on the 11/16. No plans on buying another truck any time soon. Not for what new and used are going for these days. My wifes Yukon is a 2010 and its got 55K on it.
I should be hearing from the dealer in a couple of days. Ive got my fingers crossed.

 

[Built6spdMCSS]

I hope they are changing out the pickup tube Oring also, my truck with 198k on it makes 55psi hot.

 

[64nailhead]

Valley cover is loose or a DOD lifter is on the way out - 90%.

Let the dealer know I'll buy the core hehe.

 

[mikester]

Valley cover is loose or a DOD lifter is on the way out - 90%.

Let the dealer know I'll buy the core hehe.

I asked the service manager if I could pay extra and have the AFM/DOD removed. He said nope. He also cant swap it to a 6.0. Even if I paid. I tried. LOL

 

[mikester]

I hope they are changing out the pickup tube Oring also, my truck with 198k on it makes 55psi hot.

Should be new with a long block right ? I think that might have been the third repair. Its been a while.

 

[Supercharged111]

Lucky you caught it in time, and even luckier yet you got that extended warranty. Our LH6 5.3 makes 55psi at a hot idle, something like 115k on it. I kinda wonder if the relief valve in the pan isn't messed up on yours.

 

[403Olds]

Kind of curious what is normal oil pressure on these engines. I have a 2011 Yukon that we've had for 2 years, it's usually 40 psi cold or over 2K RPM's, but hot at idle it's just under 20 psi. I thought that they lowered the pressure for fuel economy, I've never seen 55 psi out of this. I did replace the oil screen and disable the DOD.

 

[mikester]

Kind of curious what is normal oil pressure on these engines. I have a 2011 Yukon that we've had for 2 years, it's usually 40 psi cold or over 2K RPM's, but hot at idle it's just under 20 psi. I thought that they lowered the pressure for fuel economy, I've never seen 55 psi out of this. I did replace the oil screen and disable the DOD.

I think my check engine light came on just under 20. Maybe it changed by year. How did you disable the DOD ? Ranger plug in ?

 

[airboatgreg]

I had 2 oil pumps put in my 2012 in under a 100k miles. Next 2 chev trucks were lemons. I drive a Tacoma now

 

[64nailhead]

The pressure relief in the oil pan is dumping the pressure to 40 psi. The stock pump for a DOD motor is 80 psi and the pressure relief knocks it down to 40 at the bearings and sensor. This is why they idle and drive at 40 psi give or take a little.

Mike - to delete the DOD and VVT takes a new timing cover, valley cover, Gen 3 oil pump, a 1/4” NPT pipe plug for the pressure relief in the pan and 8 lifters to replace the 8 DOD lifters. I recommend a Gen 3 cam at the same time to accept a Gen 3 cam gear. ***

Jake 81cutlass , if you have a DOD motor and it’s at 20 psi, then you have an issue.

Greg airboatgreg - the oil pump swap to fix this is crap. That’s the dealer and GM making an effort to get it out of warranty before it needs a cam, lifters and DOD actuators.

*** here’s the deal with DOD and VVT delete, it’s much more reliable, but the performance and fuel economy will suck *ss with a stock ECM and cam.


Personally, I’ve not seen a DOD motor make it 160k without the valley cover bolts being loose and taking out the cam, DOD lifters and 8 pushrods as well. I’m sure that there are many out there that have made it past this mileage, but most don’t. And FWIW, I have a ‘14 with 110k and I’m prepared to buy 8 DOD lifters, pushrods and oil pump the second I see the oil pressure drop to 30 psi.


Does everyone understand why loose valley cover bolts cause this catastrophe?

My 5.3 had loose valley cover bolts and was swapped at 160k due to the ‘motor is junk - low oil pressure and making noise’. I have a 4.8 with the same issue. Takes less than $800 of parts to delete DOD AND VVT. The issue is the cost of the labor. Point of reference, my 5.3 seen 30 psi of boost (900-1000hp) and I paid $250 for it as a core.

Anyone that has one of these motors that they want to sell for the core price - message me haha - I’m collecting them.

P.S. Texas Speed and Brian Tooley Racing sell the kits to delete and fix this issue.