My stock smog pump siezed up on my 84 3.8l regal. Car ran nice after an engine overhaul for about 40k miles! . Really nice. But I lost power due to exhaust restriction in my cat converter the other day. I ran it daily for about 4 months and then the exhaust restriction. Could have my siezed up smog pump cooked my cat converter? I’m going to replace my smog pump and car converter . But what other systems should I check so I don’t cook this 350$$$ cat converter too?
Smog pump
- Thread starter JayInLA
- Start date
The secondary AIR injection system on the 3.8 is more simple than the V8 versions. It only injects air into the cat converter to warm it up faster and supply the necessary oxygen for proper 3 way catalytic function. On deceleration air is diverted into the intake manifold. There are no AIR tubes for cold start operation like with the V8s. Usually Cat converters go bad from overly rich fuel mixtures clogging them up, or lean mixtures melting the inside.
Are you sure the exhaust is restricted? Have you checked to make sure your EGR valve isn’t stuck open? You should also have an electronic EGR solenoid on (or near) the passenger valve cover, it has a 2 wire plug with a couple vacuum lines coming off it
Does anyone know the CORRECT (Cardone) Part Numbers for an Oldsmobile 307 (Engine code 9) in the 1983-84 Hurst Olds?
I see two Cardone Part Numbers that are applicable:
32-207
32-220
One is for an air-conditioned car, one is for a non-A/C car.
Mine has A/C.
I see two Cardone Part Numbers that are applicable:
32-207
32-220
One is for an air-conditioned car, one is for a non-A/C car.
Mine has A/C.
32-220 is the correct one for the 84 H/O. Considering it was mandatory to have A/C, that's the one you need. Problem is, finding one for a reasonable price.
GM p/n 7837585.
Although if you find an NOS one, you'll likely have to paint the rear cover black to match the original because I believe they're unpainted. Mine is. Unless you have mad mechanical skills, I would avoid trying to open up a bad one. Usually it's bad/dirty bearings or broken paddles that do them in. There's like 5 bearings in those things. And the front fan? Usually break those getting it apart. But someone makes them for aftermarket, but I haven't located where they're stashing them yet. Then the front bearing is held in with plastic injection similar to factory U-joints (and use the same p/n as the 12SI front alternator load end bearing). WTF GM?
GM p/n 7837585.
Although if you find an NOS one, you'll likely have to paint the rear cover black to match the original because I believe they're unpainted. Mine is. Unless you have mad mechanical skills, I would avoid trying to open up a bad one. Usually it's bad/dirty bearings or broken paddles that do them in. There's like 5 bearings in those things. And the front fan? Usually break those getting it apart. But someone makes them for aftermarket, but I haven't located where they're stashing them yet. Then the front bearing is held in with plastic injection similar to factory U-joints (and use the same p/n as the 12SI front alternator load end bearing). WTF GM?
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