Sniper EFI & Engine Harness

[K-Toe]

Okay...so I have an 85 El Camino with a 350/700R4 swap. I have a new Sniper EFI mounted and new 6AN fuel lines rigged. I have also modified the fuel tank for EFI. I have not upgraded my distributor, so I'm still using the old HEI distributor. My problem is the engine wiring!

The wiring has almost countless butt splices. I'm more than a bit lost on how to resolve my wiring problem. I...DO NOT...want to cut and splice the new Sniper harness into my old engine harness. Is this a lost cause, or is there an aftermarket solution for my old engine harness?

Any help would be appreciated!

 

[Streetbu]

Well, you need VERY little of your old harness. Starter wires, alternator wires, and the main red wire to the distributor. Only other thing is what are you doing for your dash? Really only temp gauge and oil pressure. Everything else can be cut out and removed.

 

[K-Toe]

Well, you need VERY little of your old harness. Starter wires, alternator wires, and the main red wire to the distributor. Only other thing is what are you doing for your dash? Really only temp gauge and oil pressure. Everything else can be cut out and removed.

Well, you need VERY little of your old harness. Starter wires, alternator wires, and the main red wire to the distributor. Only other thing is what are you doing for your dash? Really only temp gauge and oil pressure. Everything else can be cut out and removed.

So...what you are saying is that I have no choice but to cut and spice the EFI harness into the stock wiring harness?

Downrange...I will upgrade the dash cluster to Dakota Digital. Because every piece of the AC/Heater System was AFU, I pulled the box and installed a block-off plate. Having no AC in the South isn't fun! So...the AC system will be this winter's project.

 

[JAMCAR223]

You only need 4 "external" wires to install your sniper. + pos. straight to battery / - neg. straight to battery / 12v switched power from fuse box / coil. Everything else on the Sniper is all self contained. You shouldn't need to splice into your harness. If your worried about your original fuse box / engine harness, post a 'wanted' ad in the Classified section of this Forum.

Holley Motor Life

Motor Life is the place for the latest tech, feature, news, and new product video and article content that's updated daily! LS, LT, HEMI tech and More

www.holley.com

https://documents.holley.com/199r11322.pdf

 

[Streetbu]

There really isn't anything to cut and splice into. You have to use the wires I stated above, plus the four JAMCAR223 mentioned. Two of which MUST go straight to your battery anyways. So really most of your work will be getting rid of wiring you DON'T need that is leftover from your factory harness.

 

[64nailhead]

X2. You do need to decide how you want your dash to function when you’re done. If you want a factory coolant gauge, oil pressure, volt gauge then you find those wires and leave them in. Shorten, lengthen as needed.

FWIW, I’m into my third EFI install in a G. None of the 3 are as simple as a Sniper. I’m not trying to sound condescending, but rather whatever you want is easily completed. Decide which factory gauges you want, how you want the ignition to work (which sounds like you have already), then we can help you find the wires you need to leave and which ones you need to lose/eliminate.

An ‘85 has a ton of wires that you don’t need. The pre-ECM cars were more straightforward, but what you have is really simple still.

Ask away and you will get answers

 

[Northernregal]

My Efi install has 1 wire from the harness, the starter purple wire.

Everything else that went to the motor is gone, reassigned or eliminated.

Keep the wiper stuff, horn, lights, gauges and brake warning light.

 

[xylorex]

Also the wire that energizes the AC clutch, and the fuel pump relay wiring (if your car had an electric pump)