Starter Wiring Metal Tube Removal

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84Elky

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 30, 2010
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'84 El Camino. Have bad fusable link at starter. But wire is partially inside a metal tube that I assume is attached to the engine somewhere. Can't see anything. Any ideas on how to remove so I can get access to the wires?
Tks.
 

pontiacgp

blank
Mar 31, 2006
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Kitchener, Ontario
if my memory is working one of the bolts for the bell housing secures that tube
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
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Here's a picture of one. Looks like there's a bolt above the starter and one in the bellhousing.

 

84Elky

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 30, 2010
14
3
3
if my memory is working one of the bolts for the bell housing secures that tube
Tks. Don't have the car with me right now so don't know if I need to get at it from the top or bottom. Just trying to plan the attack. Also tks for the great pic. that helps a lot!
 
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mikester

Comic Book Super Hero
Mar 10, 2010
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The picture that was posted is from my thread. The tubes pretty easy. Only the one bolt holding it on but you should be able to pull the wires out far enough to work on them. If not pull them up from above. Its not a long harness.
 
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84Elky

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Jun 30, 2010
14
3
3
The picture that was posted is from my thread. The tubes pretty easy. Only the one bolt holding it on but you should be able to pull the wires out far enough to work on them. If not pull them up from above. Its not a long harness.
Great pic and good suggestion about pulling wires from above. That made things easy but for the headers which are always in the way. Disconnected all wires from solenoid battery terminal and pulled from tube (has 3, 12-14 GA. wires with fusable links and the wire from battery). Did not disconnect the starter wire. Probably should have but didn't because it seemed like it was trying to start so current from the ignition switch was getting to the starter. Checked the 3 wires' fusable link butt connectors. All OK. Next, did the never-do-it thing but had no choice, piercing each wire behind the fusable link. All had 100% continuity to connector, so links are also good. Taped piercings. That's the good news.

Wire connectors a little cruddy, so sanded to clean them up, reconnected to solenoid, reconnected battery and turned on headlights. I'm thinking all is OK because current has returned just like the first time. So I'm really confident now. More good news.

But now the bad news. Tried to crank and again heard a single solenoid click or some sort of a light wire-shorting sound (not sure which), from what seemed to be around the starter as before when all this began -- and after that, again no current in entire car. So 2 times now, the same thing. A "click"/noise during attempt to start and thereafter no current in entire car.

Next, took starter off and had it tested. I never wanted something to fail so bad in my entire life. NOT! Works like a champ through multiple tests. That was really bad news!!! Grrrrrr!!!!!

Now I'm really stumped. Despite my electrical ignorance, (BTY, I did disconnect the battery to do the work), here's why I'm stumped. There is no connector bus in the car. Everything appears to be powered from the 3 wires at the solenoid. So here's the $64,000 question:
Why does/how can current to the entire car disappear when there are 3, 12v hot wires from the solenoid that apparently go to the dash, fuel pump relay, ignition switch, etc. They have to have 12v on them because they checked for continuity, and all 3 can't be bad despite the favorable test results. Just makes no sense. Seems everything, or at least something should still work except the starter circuit And even more weird is the fact that the current return after some time. If something was fried, that wouldn't happen. But it did after the first no-start occurrence when I wiggled the wires at the starter making me think there was bad connection. Then again current reappeared after the solenoid disconnect/reconnect, only to fail again.​

Will replace starter and reconnect everything tomorrow, but will not attempt to start. Praying for current in car.

Have no clue what to do now. Am out of bullets. Help please with suggestions of what.

FYI, a few other things. Battery has 12.6 v. Starter/solenoid is from 2000 Chevy Van with 350L (high torque). No 'R' terminal on solenoid; only Battery and 'S'. HEI ignition with remote coil. Have had car 10 years and never an electrical/operational issue. Guess there’s a first time for everything, but it didn’t have to be this problematic. Also, this car is not stock. Has TPI. But I do believe the wiring other than the TPI harness is essentially the stock Elky configuration if that helps.

Thanks in advance again for any suggestions.
 
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