Steel brake line care?

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clean8485

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 18, 2005
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I'm about to overhaul the brake hydraulic system on my '80 Malibu. I have a new reproduction steel brake line kit here. Its not stainless steel, so I'm wondering what people do to try to keep corrosion from setting in on the new lines. I was thinking of polishing the lines from the master cylinder to the combination valve, then clear coating them, just for appearance in the engine bay, then just trying to use Fluid Film on the rest of the lines under the car, to try to keep them in good shape. Any other thoughts? Thanks.
 

pagrunt

Geezer
Sep 14, 2014
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The big pain is not being able to protect the inside on the lines. The moisture the brake fluid collects will be what causes the lines to rust from the inside. Anything that can help prtect & extend the life of the lines will help.
 
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TURNA

Rocket Powered Basset Hound
Jul 24, 2009
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Paint them.
 

ed1948

Royal Smart Person
Aug 6, 2016
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-Coat with white lithium grease
-coat with, after cleaning, with truck bed coating
-paint with Rust Check red primer(I used that on a muffler pipe and was surprised how well it held up after a few years)

On my regular winter beaters I use Fluid Film thickened with undercoating tar. You may feel differently about it being a 'show oriented' car with mirrors underneath.
 

oldsmobile joe

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Nov 12, 2015
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don't drive on salted roads
 

Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
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If you're going to the trouble to replace the lines, why not go back with stainless? Was it a big price difference?
 

clean8485

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 18, 2005
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Jared, at the time I bought the lines (which was a few years ago now), there was a fairly significant difference in the price between the regular steel and the stainless steel lines. Also, I had heard (and still continue to hear) about difficulties in getting the stainless lines to seal properly. At the time, it was easier and cheaper to go for the regular steel lines. The lines are going on a hobby car, which will not be used in the winter, and doesn't see much use, even during the good weather. I just want to try to keep them as clean as possible for as long as possible.
Oldsmobile Joe, as stated above, the car isn't driven in the winter.
 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
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Louisville, KY
Jared, at the time I bought the lines (which was a few years ago now), there was a fairly significant difference in the price between the regular steel and the stainless steel lines. Also, I had heard (and still continue to hear) about difficulties in getting the stainless lines to seal properly. At the time, it was easier and cheaper to go for the regular steel lines. The lines are going on a hobby car, which will not be used in the winter, and doesn't see much use, even during the good weather. I just want to try to keep them as clean as possible for as long as possible.
Oldsmobile Joe, as stated above, the car isn't driven in the winter.
I don't blame you for buying steel lines. If I do it again, I will have steel instead of stainless.
Don't get me wrong, the kit I used from inline tube is really nice and looks great! However, they are a royal PITA to reflare if any modifications have to be made. When inline forms them, it anneals the material making it super strong!!!!

I ruined two new brass prop valves because the threads on the fittings wiped the brass threads out. They also didn't want to seal for crap. If I recall, only one fitting in the prop valve sealed correctly!!! I ended up going back to an OE iron unit I pulled from a B body caprice.

I also had to ditch my master cylinder lines since the bends weren't correct, and they were impossible for me to reflare. Even using a buddy's $300 eastwood flare tool which almost broke!

Scuff and clear coat the steel lines and you will be good to go!!!
 
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565bbchevy

Geezer
Aug 8, 2011
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You can't go wrong with Cunifer brake lines, they don't rust and are affordable and easy to bend and flare.
I bought the coils online and the fittings locally and probably have about $100 into everything that it took to completely do my Regal and still have enough line and almost enough fittings left over to do another Gbody.
I also installed a new master cylinder and brass proportioning valve prior to installing to make my life easier.
 
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