Steering column and key switch problem

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DPF 84 Hurst

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 2, 2020
47
13
8
Hi, I’m looking for help, restoring an 84 hurst and working on the steering column (it had broken pieces when I acquired the car) I’ve replaced almost every part and tightened the 4 bolts that seem to be the problem for these columns.
the old ignition switch and high beam switch were also missing
Also I’m working on the column which is out of the vehicle in case that matters
Here are my issues
The first time I put the column back together when I got to the part where I put the key switch back in, the key didn’t spring back when I was testing it.... I replaced that little spring along with that gear mechanism on the opposite side of the ignition key switch & still it will not bounce back while testing it and I’m not even sure with the travel I have it’s actually going to start the car because it doesn’t seem like it goes to the start position far enough to activate the switch
The rod going to the ignition switch appears to be fine and Straight but I’m not sure if it was damaged or bent before I got the car which brings me to my second question
What is that rod supposed to look like if I’m staring at it looking straight down from what would be the top of the steering wheel it appears that the rod leans to the right and I had trouble putting a new switch on to it (and I’m not even sure if I got the correct switch but I bought an AC Delco one for a tilt wheel
That rod also doesn’t seem to have much travel when I pulled The column apart again I tested the travel of that rod to see if that was the issue and it only seems as if the rod travels about a half an inch back-and-forth at best
I’ve watch the video On how to put this back together several times from hutchhiperf which is extremely informative but doesn’t seem to cover that one particular issue
Sorry for the long post but I want to be as descriptive as possible to hopefully get someone with an answer to my problem thanks for reading
 

fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
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The switches are different between tilt and non-tilt, AND I've had them boxed incorrectly. I'd be willing to bet you have the wrong switch, but it appears you don't have the original to compare to. 69hurstolds is our resident NOS parts guy; he may be able to help.
 
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DPF 84 Hurst

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 2, 2020
47
13
8
The switches are different between tilt and non-tilt, AND I've had them boxed incorrectly. I'd be willing to bet you have the wrong switch, but it appears you don't have the original to compare to. 69hurstolds is our resident NOS parts guy; he may be able to help.
I’ve purchased 2 so far. Here are the pics
 

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fleming442

Captain Tenneal
Dec 26, 2013
13,046
24,216
113
The problem is that the difference is minute. The hole for the actuator rod and the slide mechanism are slightly different, and you can't really tell unless you do a side by side comparo.
 
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DPF 84 Hurst

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 2, 2020
47
13
8
Okay.... we’ll do you know (roughly) how far that rod can travel if it’s not attached to the switch? Mine seems to move back and forth freely but maybe 3/4” at best. Does that sound right?
 

69hurstolds

Geezer
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
8,195
17,595
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1990116 (D1405B) is the correct switch for tilt. They go backwards depending on if you get a non-tilt or tilt. The rod does not travel very far, less than an inch. It doesn't have to go far. Also, the ignition switch has oblong mounting holes so you can adjust it, so there's that.

Sometimes there's a little plastic pin in them, to which you install the switch in the off/locked position. After you get it situated, you pull the little plastic pin out and check for operation.

Here's how to tell which one you got (or didn't get). There's only 1 number difference in the part numbers, so look out.

 
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DPF 84 Hurst

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Oct 2, 2020
47
13
8
Thanks Everyone for the help.. got the correct switch and realized the rod was jammed up
All good now thanks again
 
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