Hence the need for the 5 pin relay.......
A relay takes a light duty signal to trigger a heavier duty switch- all in a nice, little 1"x1" cube.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=bosch+30...54030742&hvtargid=kwd-5069185279&tag=gbody-20
You need to put a meter on the shifter switch to see how it works (or consult the destructions that came with it). I didn't catch what you're working with.
On the relay: pins 85 & 86 are the trigger (coil). They have to be opposing polarity, so if you have a ground coming from the shifter switch, the opposite side gets voltage (ignition on through crank- pink wire). If you have 2 terminals on the switch, ground one and take the other to the relay. If there is only 1 terminal, it probably grounds through the shifter body. Hopefully, to make things easy, it will show ground when in neutral and park. Otherwise, we'll have to modify the current plan- no big deal.
Pins 30, 87a, and 87 are the switch. 87 & 87a are your normally closed section. In this case, we don't need 87a. 30 & 87 are normally open; these will be the 2 sides of your cut starter wire (purple).
So, the way it works is: if the shifter is in P or N, the shifter switch will provide ground to 1 side of the relay coil. When you turn the key on (& to start position), the other side of the coil gets voltage which closes the switch in the relay across 30 & 87 completing the start circuit.
No problem. If you want one through a parts store, they're the same as a Ford Mustang or Ranger fuel pump relay. Aftermarket offers the plug-in sockets; that's why I like'm.
It'll be fine, but yeah, you can get 12ga.
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