"Sub frame" connectors

[pagrunt]

OK this may seem like an odd thread since our cars are full frame. I've been thinking about an alternative boxing the frame. My theory would be making square tube "sub frame" connectors that would consisting of an 2x3 tube running along the bottom of the middle being flush with the portion that the trans X-member bolts to (and could be used a mount point for the X-member.) There would be a 2x2 running along the top. Putting gussets at the ends to add strength. Even thought about adding like a strut between the top & bottom tubes for possible added strength & allow access to the O.E. hard line locations. Everytime I head out to the garage an look at the frame I think if that would be a functional idea or it would be a waste of time & resources. Figure see about some opinions on this idea since there are enough guys here who know the full weakness of the frame & other methods to add strenght & to make things stiffer.

 

[-83MONTESS-]

I see what you're saying (I think) but in all honesty boxing the frame not only would be easier but more practical. Anything like that and you're asking for clearance issues with the exhaust, floor, etc... Boxing the frame does the same work without getting in the way of any of that. Just the way I see it.

 

[64nailhead]

I'm not seeing, in my mind, what your describing exactly.

I made somewhat of an alternative to boxing the frame. It might not be as strong, but perhaps it's stronger (??), but not really sure. I would've boxed the frame if I had known or heard of it when we had bought the car as a roller. But at the time I was not knowledgeable of making that frame mod. And now it would be quite the PITA to pull the body.

I started, out of necessity, by modifying the stock trans crossmember for a 200-4r. It's quite ugly and isn't lightweight. I've posted some pics of it previously and been scoffed at - lol. But it worked pretty well when we were making 500 whp. When we put in more power I added a frame support from the rear of the crossmember, that also got reinforced and gusseted, and added some support and gusseting to the crossmember also. Basically, I took a 20-24" of 1.5" angle iron and welded nuts on to it and drilled the bottom of the frame under the driver door so that it could be bolted in. Welded a piece of 1.5x1.5 tube to the frame angle and a plate that could be bolted onto a gusset on the crossmember. The tube runs approx at a 45 degree angle from the frame.

FWIW, I'm going to add more frame supports to both support the lower torque arm mounts and mount a rear driveshaft loop to as well over the winter.

 

[fleming442]

It's not exactly a new concept of you're talking about something like this

That's Art Morrison
There a bunch of kits for A bodies

 

[MrSony]

It's not exactly a new concept of you're talking about something like this

That's Art Morrison
There a bunch of kits for A bodies

gotDAYUM that's a nice piece.

 

[fleming442]

Better be for the cheese they want!

 

[motorheadmike]

We did this, in part, on the wagon using all of the stock jig alignment points as pick up/bolt locations - only had to add a mirrored hole on the PS front. Direct bolt on.

Adding another ladder rung between the frame rails, mid-ship, would do a world of good too.

The diminishing return is always added weight. I'd have boxed the frame if I'd had access.

 

[pagrunt]

Sorry I forgot the one detail, those connectors would run from front to rear along the frame . Running from the X-member mounting points to right where the factory boxed section starts, one on the top & the other on the bottom. Could even tie them into the lower control arm mounts. Then the strut would connect the top & bottom square tubes to reduce the chance of the "C" channel section from compressing & allowing access to the body mounts & stock hard line locations. I didn't mean running left to right or even trying to go as far to be like the Art Morrision frame. My idea was something that helped to stop flex, add strenth, allow easy body mount access, not cause clearence issues. For some one going to a transmission that needs a X-member mounted farther back they wouldn't need an extention as it could/would be part of the connector. Hope this may allow a better mental picture of my idea.

 

[pagrunt]

Took pics to show my idea using tape. To match up with the bottom it is 2"x1.5", top is 1"x.75".

 

[motorheadmike]

I am sitting here watching Archer... so here you go: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/1980...gon-destined-for-drag-week-2019.49375/page-18

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/1980...destined-for-drag-week-2019.49375/post-557033