T-Top Question

69hurstolds

69hurstolds

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
3,343
113
....that makes me sound like a liberal..... :unsure:
You are Canadian, aren't you? :)

As stated, though, I'm not sure what the difference is, if any between the border and borderless glass. I'm thinking if you're using new weatherstrip though, it may seal adequately. There's the primary and secondary seals, as well as the glass seats pretty tight. But I don't know if there's a difference in how they clip into the center channel.

But I suspect there may be differences, so I checked the T-bar. According to the G-body parts book, they used a 79 (larger panel, without frame) through 85 T-bar and an 86-88 T-bar with different part numbers. 79 through 85 it's 20113281 (discontinued in 1997), for 86-88 it shows 20674345. Hmmmmmmm. Again, what's the difference? The number isn't a supersession number, so something is different about it.

Interesting the 78-79 info on T-top glass it shows a smaller with frame and larger without frame. Wonder what the real difference is with that. I haven't followed the 78-80 A-body tops.
 
69hurstolds

69hurstolds

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
3,343
113
T-top channel part number tag.JPG


T-top channel beveled ends.JPG


While I was searching for the box that had the trim in it, I ran across another box that had a set of inners in it. Imagine that. Kind of weird. I didn't recall the bottoms having a "ridge" of sorts, but that's how it appears. The "U-channel" is 5/16" wide and 5/16" tall. The opening for the glass measures 3/16" The plastic is 1/16" thick. These are the "long ones" that go to the center. The front/back are similar except they're shorter. The outer edge length is 32-5/8". So If you had 6 of these, all you would need to do is cut off the length you needed.

Not sure you'd find one with a ridge like this out in the wild, but I'm also betting any edge protector like this might work just fine.

It has a sort of rounded edge to it on the outer surface. Like I said, it's glued to the glass somehow, and I suspect it's a buytl type of sealant. Could be wrong on that.
 
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pontiacgp

pontiacgp

Canadian Prime Minister
Mar 31, 2006
26,757
113
Kitchener, Ontario
View attachment 136126

View attachment 136127

While I was searching for the box that had the trim in it, I ran across another box that had a set of inners in it. Imagine that. Kind of weird. I didn't recall the bottoms having a "ridge" of sorts, but that's how it appears. The "U-channel" is 5/16" wide and 5/16" tall. The opening for the glass measures 3/16" The plastic is 1/16" thick. These are the "long ones" that go to the center. The front/back are similar except they're shorter. The outer edge length is 32-5/8". So If you had 6 of these, all you would need to do is cut off the length you needed.

Not sure you'd find one with a ridge like this out in the wild, but I'm also betting any edge protector like this might work just fine.

It has a sort of rounded edge to it on the outer surface. Like I said, it's glued to the glass somehow, and I suspect it's a buytl type of sealant. Could be wrong on that.
I'm going to remove the trim and go naked. I have new seals to put on so I shouldn't have any issues with leaks......but if I do come across a trim I can use I will use it
 
Cajun83HO

Cajun83HO

Apprentice
Aug 3, 2016
88
18
Louisiana
Well, I know a guy with a Fab shop that does good with stainless. I could get him to use my tops as a template and reproduce them then powder coat them black.
That shouldn't be too expensive.:notworthy::blah:
 
pontiacgp

pontiacgp

Canadian Prime Minister
Mar 31, 2006
26,757
113
Kitchener, Ontario
Well, I know a guy with a Fab shop that does good with stainless. I could get him to use my tops as a template and reproduce them then powder coat them black.
That shouldn't be too expensive.:notworthy::blah:
thanks for the offer but I'm going to go with no border trim. If I have leaks I have my spare set that I'll leave the trim on. The spare set has a couple of spots that the trim is damaged but it won't dmamge the seals.
 
69hurstolds

69hurstolds

Comic Book Super Hero
Supporting Member
Jan 2, 2006
3,343
113
Well, I know a guy with a Fab shop that does good with stainless. I could get him to use my tops as a template and reproduce them then powder coat them black.
That shouldn't be too expensive.:notworthy::blah:
Powder coat will scratch off eventually. I thought of mirror channel, but metal probably wouldn't be the ideal thing IMO.
 

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