T5 Swap - questions please

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walshie

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Apr 7, 2018
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Hi, I am new here: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/87-montecarlo-ss-ttops.67812/

I am at the end of installing a T5, NWC and have a few questions:
  1. When adjusting the clutch pedal, do you think it's best to have it level with the brake pedal or slightly elevated?
  2. My transmission from a 1987 Camaro has an electric speedometer, do you know where the kit is to convert back to mechanical?
  3. From diagrams I have seen, the neutral safety switch is on the driver's side top. However, my transmission does not have a wiring harness here. Am I missing something?
  4. I had to cut the header in order to put the slave cylinder. I am most likely brining this to a custom exhaust shop...but do you know what headers would fit? The collector would have to be forward of the bell housing.
Thanks in advance.
 

Wageslave

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Jan 25, 2017
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I'd probably just abandon the slave in favor of a hydraulic t/o bearing, but that's just me, I guess.

I second that. You can get an internal slave/throwout bearing to avoid clearance issues running an external slave. It should be drop in IIRC. I spent the money on a SickSpeedMonte hydraulic pedal kit when I converted mine, and the pedal feel is worth its weight in gold. My clutch pedal sits about an inch closer to the driver than the brake pedal on mine, but it is more personal preference than anything.

Headers that fit a non-stock G-body are going to be PITA to find on the first try. If you have a good custom shop nearby, that may be the way to go.

Dakota digital makes an ECD-100-2 speedometer drive box that can drive your speedometer from the VSS signal out of your transmission.
 
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pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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I have my clutch pedal sitting closer to me so I can slide my foot behind it to rest when cruising on the highway. I have Hedman elite headers and the slave cylinder is tight but they fit. The collector makes it tight. I did run the hydraulic throw out bearing but that blew and the brake fluid trashed a new centerforce clutch disk so I went back to a slave for now. The issue with the slave cylinder is I have to remove that to remove my oil filter.
 
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I'd probably just abandon the slave in favor of a hydraulic t/o bearing, but that's just me, I guess.

I like the idea of using of hydraulic TOB, but the main downside is if it fails, your pulling the trans as opposed to just swapping a slave cylinder. And as pontiacgp said it will cover your clutch disc in oil and ruin it if it fails.

I have my clutch pedal sitting closer to me so I can slide my foot behind it to rest when cruising on the highway. I have Hedman elite headers and the slave cylinder is tight but they fit. The collector makes it tight. I did run the hydraulic throw out bearing but that blew and the brake fluid trashed a new centerforce clutch disk so I went back to a slave for now. The issue with the slave cylinder is I have to remove that to remove my oil filter.

If you are gonna be doing any amount of highway driving, you'll want to leave the clutch high enough you can get your foot behind it. These cars don't have a dead pedal and sitting with your left leg in a pretzel gets old fast.
 

pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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If you are gonna be doing any amount of highway driving, you'll want to leave the clutch high enough you can get your foot behind it. These cars don't have a dead pedal and sitting with your left leg in a pretzel gets old fast.

I removed the G Body parking brake system (i may have gotten confused with 4 pedals) and installed an F body handbrake system. I have plenty of room to get my size 14 behind the clutch

Another thing worth mentioning with the master clutch cylinder I was only able to get one stiffening rod from an F body set up and my firewall eventually cracked which snapped the rod on the master. I put a doubler on the firewall and it's good now. They do sell doublers for the firewall but it's easy to make.

And another thing with the hydraulic throw out bearing your pedal with travel too far so I used an appliance adjuster and drilled a hole in the firewall. One nut on either side of the firewall and it made a good adjustable stop for the pedal. Even if the hydraulic throw out bearing has a stop to prevent over travel I would still use the stop. The instructions with the throw out bearing will tell you the max travel which is not the pedal travel but the travel of the rod on the master clutch cylinder.

Round-Base-Levelling-Feet.jpg
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
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Hi, I am new here: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/87-montecarlo-ss-ttops.67812/

I am at the end of installing a T5, NWC and have a few questions:
  1. When adjusting the clutch pedal, do you think it's best to have it level with the brake pedal or slightly elevated?
  2. My transmission from a 1987 Camaro has an electric speedometer, do you know where the kit is to convert back to mechanical?
  3. From diagrams I have seen, the neutral safety switch is on the driver's side top. However, my transmission does not have a wiring harness here. Am I missing something?
  4. I had to cut the header in order to put the slave cylinder. I am most likely brining this to a custom exhaust shop...but do you know what headers would fit? The collector would have to be forward of the bell housing.
Thanks in advance.
Welcome to the site from Houston! Check out post #23 for some good pictures in the following thread. This member has a T5 with the slave cylinder and headers. I don't know for sure what set of headers that is but I suspect it's the Hedman Elites...
https://gbodyforum.com/threads/t5-is-rebuilt-and-waiting-for-good-weather.67619/page-3

I have the Hedman Elite's (68310) in my car but I'm going with mechanical linkage. I have quite a bit of discussion on fitment and pictures starting with post number 343 and ending at post number 405 in my build thread here...

https://gbodyforum.com/threads/space-city-1982-gp-build.55501/page-35

Had I modified my crossmember first and got the transmission down relative to the tunnel like it needed to be, I might not have needed to do as much trimming on the passenger side lower rear control arm mount.

Hope this helps!

--Jared
 
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1983calais

Master Mechanic
Feb 26, 2015
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Thanks Texas82GP for the thread reference and the comment! Yes I have hedman elites that pontiacgp turned me on to. They are G body specific headers. (I don't recall the number right of hand) I am running a fourth gen Camaro hydraulic setup with the John B pedal. 5speeds.com has the kit for your speedometer and not expensive. Paul will get you going with that very easy. My pedal is about an inch higher than the brake pedal but that's where the master stopped it and to help out I mounted a stop so it wouldn't over travel so to speak. As far as the neutral safety switch, I didn't wire one in. Just remember to push your pedal in before you start it or have it in neutral with the E brake on. That is the back up light switch on the side of the trans. I have a chassis wiring diagram and found the backup light wires and tied them in to that switch. Works like factory. Hope this helps. Feel free to ask more if you need. Good luck.
 
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pontiacgp

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Mar 31, 2006
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as for starting I have it neutral, I don't not start it with the clutch in cause that puts pressure on the thrust bearing which will wear it out prematurely. It's a bad system GM has when the clutch has to be pushed in to start the car. Corvette and Camaro guys complain alot about thrust bearing failures
 
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1983calais

Master Mechanic
Feb 26, 2015
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Tiffin, OH
as for starting I have it neutral, I don't not start it with the clutch in cause that puts pressure on the thrust bearing which will wear it out prematurely. It's a bad system GM has when the clutch has to be pushed in to start the car. Corvette and Camaro guys complain alot about thrust bearing failures
I did not know that. Learn something new everyday. But I don't understand why it would.
 
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