My Hedmans are a different design, mine don't hang down as low and I don't remember a pipe interferring with the starter. What mode # are those headers.
T5 Swap - questions please
- Thread starter walshie
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If disengaging the clutch is creating pressure on a crank thrust washer, then you need to do one of two things - move the transmission farther away from the engine or limit the clutch travel. The input and throwout bearing should NEVER put any type of forward force onto the crank thrust washers. Something is wrong in your setup if this is the case. Also, the clutch should be fully disengaged prior to the pedal hitting the a dead spot that is exerting pressure on either the pilot bearing or flywheel.
pontiacgp - sorry to disagree with you, but this is incorrect info. Fix the issue, not the symptom.
Inconsistent manufacturing tolerances? Or a incorrectly built header? Did you call Hedman to see what they had to say? I don't understand why these headers don't fit better. The first set of headers I ever bought were stainless long tubes from Dynatech (Afco) for my 2008 Sierra. They dropped in with no drama. Are these cars really that different from one to the next?
No need to apologize if you disagree with me....but....
https://www.motor.com/magazine-summary/thrust-bearing-failure-prevention-analysis/
"In addition, on manual transmission vehicles, the use of starter lockout systems (where the clutch pedal must be depressed in order to start the engine) adds to the problem, since this places forward pressure to the crankshaft during starting, when there’s little or no oil lubrication on the thrust bearing surfaces. Bearing manufacturers have tried to address these OE-inherent problems by adding a fine dispersal of silicon to the bearing matrix and by designing angled ramp areas on the thrust faces that help to promote oil delivery to the thrust areas."
I'll have to look up the part number for my Hedman headers, the collector is only about 2" down from the slave cylinder. It's a tight fit to bolt in the slave cylinder with the header flange in the way. I originally set this up to use a hydraulic throw out bearing.
When I originally put in the standard Hedmans back in 2000, the passenger side had to go in from the top side with out the starter in place. Then the header had to be left very loose to slide the stock size starter in. A few years later when the starter went, it had to hang very loose again. I ended up getting a mini starter from Pace to fit (but I ended up selling the replacement Elite set & went with manifolds.)
The aticle you attached identifies the exact issue that I was referencing. The clutch is, or I should say should be, disengaged prior to the pedal being applied at maximum pressure and/or on the floor. The clutch switch(starter lockout) should engage, or activate, when the clutch is disengaged. I understand that the OEM's cannot assume that every customer will maintain there clutch adjustment properly, so they position the switch so that it only allows for starter engagement when the throwout bearing is creating pressure on t he thrust bearings. Basically, they are creating there own issue, but it's very understandable as to why - being sued because people roll there cars when the tires are underinflated, or the ignition switch turns off because some dingleberry has 4lbs of keys hanging on it, etc.
My point is, that this can all be eliminated with correct clutch adjustment and clutch switch positioning.
No sarcasm or argument intended.
I must be missing something, every time you push the clutch pedal the force of the release bearing on the fingers is pushing the crank forward. When the car has been sitting for a while the thrust bearing may not have any oil on it so when you push the clutch in to start the car there is pressure on the thrust bearing. The heavier the pressure plate the more pressure on the trust bearing.
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1005-new-disc-clutch-system-news/
“Every time you push the clutch pedal down, you are trying to push the crank out of the front of the block,” points out Centerforce’s Will Baty. “A heavy pedal puts stress on the thrust bearing and hydraulics.”
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/hrdp-1005-new-disc-clutch-system-news/
“Every time you push the clutch pedal down, you are trying to push the crank out of the front of the block,” points out Centerforce’s Will Baty. “A heavy pedal puts stress on the thrust bearing and hydraulics.”
Drove the car Friday/Saturday and back on jacks Sunday (for maintenance, flushing transmission fluid, small leak in rear transmission seal)
It was FUN, exciting to get used to it...next question
SHIFTER!
I am leaning towards the HURST model 3916045 which does not come with a stick so looking at 53887238 (7.5").
There is a 6" model 5387201 but I am afraid the 6" will be too small protruding from the console.
Any thoughts or opinions?
Reminder: Tremec T5, 350 ZZ3, Centerforce Clutch
It was FUN, exciting to get used to it...next question
SHIFTER!
I am leaning towards the HURST model 3916045 which does not come with a stick so looking at 53887238 (7.5").
There is a 6" model 5387201 but I am afraid the 6" will be too small protruding from the console.
Any thoughts or opinions?
Reminder: Tremec T5, 350 ZZ3, Centerforce Clutch
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