Tall balljoints with stock wheels.

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Aug 14, 2011
3,415
113
Galaxy far far away
After fixing the exhaust I discovered the boots for the balljoints are dry rotted. I don't know for how long they have been bad but looks like its time for a front end rebuild. Is it possible to use tall balljoints with factory 15 inch rims? I have T type turbine style rims that I like to keep. Looking through threads I see there are clearance issues with tall balljoints and sub 17 inch rims. I plan to just do taller upper balljoints if it clears the 15 inch rims.
 

81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,366
113
Western MN
No issues. I have tall lowers on my TType vectors and it clears.
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Aug 14, 2011
3,415
113
Galaxy far far away
No issues. I have tall lowers on my TType vectors and it clears.

Is that with the stock arms? Forgot to say I plan on using stock A arms with an wedge adapter to place the tall ball joint at the correct angle.
 

307 Regal

Royal Smart Person
Oct 21, 2009
1,649
113
Northern Indiana
I believe so. When I did tall uppers, it was with stock arms and a drop spindle. Pictured here are tall uppers AND lowers with a standard height spindle, BUT it was a standard 2WD Blazer spindle. ((Does that make it a knuckle instead of a spindle?))
Hopefully this helps. I too use the late-'80s T-type wheels. Without a "tall spindle" upper, expect more alignment shims. Once the upper A-arm is sticking out straighter, you'll have to "suck it back in" to get rid of the extra positive camber that it will create.
I like the wedge adapter idea, but you may want to use a wedged washer on your hardware too so that the hardware is pressing flat against something.

IMG_3028.JPG
 
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81cutlass

Comic Book Super Hero
Feb 16, 2009
4,366
113
Western MN
Oh, I read wrong. I have tall lowers, not uppers. I have no experience with tall upper
 

Clone TIE Pilot

Comic Book Super Hero
Thread starter
Aug 14, 2011
3,415
113
Galaxy far far away
I believe so. When I did tall uppers, it was with stock arms and a drop spindle. Pictured here are tall uppers AND lowers with a standard height spindle, BUT it was a standard 2WD Blazer spindle. ((Does that make it a knuckle instead of a spindle?))
Hopefully this helps. I too use the late-'80s T-type wheels. Without a "tall spindle" upper, expect more alignment shims. Once the upper A-arm is sticking out straighter, you'll have to "suck it back in" to get rid of the extra positive camber that it will create.
I like the wedge adapter idea, but you may want to use a wedged washer on your hardware too so that the hardware is pressing flat against something.

View attachment 211868

Here are the wedge mounts I was talking about. I do have a set of Blazer spindles, I read they do move the wheels out a little.

https://www.medievalchassis.com/product/upper-control-arm-wedge/
 
Last edited:

scoti

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Sep 5, 2019
1,691
113
Texas
Back spacing of the wheels can be a factor as well. Something to keep in mind....
 

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